senor honda

So you are saying it is solely the cutting of a spring that causes a crash and we are not to consider bald tires, potholes, driving in the rain, and unevenness of pavement? lol and are we to believe that while you personally
don't know how to precisely measure a suspension before altering a spring, that you believe that NO ONE knows how
to precisely measure a suspension?

senor honda

It's my belief that a spring which is too short is what causes the spring seat to pop out of the perch. It doesn't matter if you paid $300 for a spring that's too short or if you made it too short personally.
There are 6 types of springs. Not all springs have a flattened transition to them. I see nothing wrong with making a flattened transition/flat spot if the original setup had one. I know how to do that, but maybe you don't.
The cars I work on have an even ride height.

If I were to cut the top of a spring, I see no reason to leave angled sharp metal contacting the rubber top hat when I know how to make a smooth finish and I see no reason to destroy or gouge anything when I know how to avoid shoddy workmanship.

When a properly modified spring is lined up the same as the original spring, it should fit into the perch and top hat and requires no more settling than the spring that it replaced.

senor honda

There are some people who are bolt-on guys and don't know how to fabricate anything. When they mess something up, they tell everyone that no one else can do what they just attempted to do.

Generally a spring's purpose is to support the weight of a car and keep it from bottoming out. Stock springs were engineered/designed to support the weight of a car, so I believe spring rates close to stock, do what they were designed to do if a car is street driven. I believe heavier shocks and lighter wheels keep the tires in contact with the road longer during bumps and depressions.

In a racing application such as a banked turn, the car will "weigh" more than stock as it is pushed down into the banking by cornering forces, so heavier springs than stock are needed to keep the car from bottoming out.

In a racing application such as a car getting airborn, the car will "weigh"
more when it lands, as it is pushed down toward the pavement by an "increase" in gravity, so heavier springs than stock are needed to keep the car from bottoming out.-Bob

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& NUMBER THREE:

senor honda

I believe that if the the stock springs had a set rate when they were wound, they will still be about equal to each other when they are shortened. I believe that aftermarket new springs will be about equal to each other when they were wound if a person buys name brand springs. I can check the spring rates. If they were within tolerance/about the same before modifying, they should be the same after modifying. Most aftermarket and some dealers cannot tell you what the rates are or tell
you what the tolerance is. Everything has a manufacturing tolerance.

After careful measuring of a suspension, I modify springs in pairs so they will be about equal to each other. If you yourself are doing one side of a car and then the other, maybe the springs you do, do not have the same spring rate. If slamming on your brakes causes your car to lean and swerve, I would look into working on the brakes to see why one side grabs better than the other.

senor honda

A car will be bouncy because the shocks are bad. Springs that are too hard beat up the car, as well as cause the
car to lose grip with the road on the bumpiness of the street. If you personally are cutting out so much of the spring that you are significantly changing the spring rate, maybe you should go back and do some measuring of the suspension. If your car is resting on the bottomed-out shock instead of the springs, an aftermarket spring of the same height would also cause your car to rest on the bottomed-out shock.

senor honda

Why lower a car? lol