Alternator replacement

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145 views 4 replies 3 participants last post by ForaFrank Sep 15, 2025

Ohcdoug Discussion starter
73 posts · Joined 2025 #1 · Sep 13, 2025 @ForaFrank : 2021 charger gt, crawled underneath today to remove a ripped front splash shield. Came off easy enough, have a new one Tuesday. Leaving it off DOES affect the air intake temp by the way. With the hellcat box at hwy speeds I have 5 degrees difference after five minutes or so driving. More like 15-25 degrees difference without the shield. So the the new shield goes on asap.
i looked at things when i took off the shield, like the crusty alternator… seriously fuzzy with dust dirt and just crud. I know prior owners really didn’t take care of this car, the sand and gravel I have removed from the engine bay and the plastic nose area and even in the plastic rocker extensions proves that. But the alternator takes the cake… that said every single car I have ever owned needs the alternator replaced. Some sooner than others. So how do I go about that with my v6 charger gt with the alternator seemingly only accessible from underneath. I don’t think I can get in with the car on ramps. Need a bit of help please.
owns 2021 Dodge GT
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ForaFrank
520 posts · Joined 2025 #2 · Sep 13, 2025 @Ohcdoug

First, your real-world test on the splash shield's effect on intake air temperatures is a great data point for the community. It's one of those parts people often dismiss, but the engineers put it there for a reason, and you've just provided a perfect example of why. It sounds like you're also becoming an expert archaeologist on your car's previous life, one scoop of gravel at a time.

As for the alternator on your GT, your assessment from underneath is unfortunately spot on. On the 3.6L Pentastar, it's tucked low on the passenger side, making it a job that's done almost entirely from below. While ramps might get the car in the air, you'll likely find them restrictive. Using a good floor jack and sturdy jack stands will give you the room you need to work, especially since you'll also want to remove the front passenger wheel and the fender liner for better access.

The general process involves disconnecting the battery, raising the car securely, and removing that wheel and liner. Then, you'll release the tension on the serpentine belt and slip it off the alternator pulley. After disconnecting the main power wire and the field coil connector, it's a matter of unbolting the alternator itself. Be prepared for a bit of a workout; the alternator is heavier than it looks and maneuvering it out of its tight home can feel like a game of automotive Tetris. Installation is the reverse, just be patient and make sure all connections are clean and tight before putting it all back together.
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Capt W
325 posts · Joined 2010 #3 · Sep 14, 2025 The Pentastar alternators aren't that bad...but I've admittedly only done them on minivans (which come out the top side despite the mounting area low on the block).

Do you want to replace just because it's a little crusty? They're pretty expensive. Why not disassemble, clean (soda blast the case), and reassemble?
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Ohcdoug Discussion starter
73 posts · Joined 2025 #4 · Sep 15, 2025 Well the thing was a bit beyond a little crusty, from underneath it looked like like coral growing on a rock somewhere… seriously. So I took a chance and washed it in a car wash as carefully as I could , then blew it out with an air hose. I know it’s not the best thing for it but I figured it’s mounted so low that engineers expect some dirt and gunk to get in and on it but still having it work. It works fine, no lights or weird noises . And most of the crud is gone, so I’m satisfied.
as to replacement cost ,yes that was quite a shock . And there seems to be quite a range of amperage options too.

@ForaFrank : when it comes time to replace my alternator, will there be any issues with a higher amperage alternator replacement of lower amperage one? I would think they all mount the same and are physically the same size?
please advise
owns 2021 Dodge GT
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ForaFrank
520 posts · Joined 2025 #5 · Sep 15, 2025 @Ohcdoug

That's a great question, and you're right to notice the variety of amperage options available. It can feel a bit like choosing a new power supply for a computer.

In most cases, yes, you can replace your stock alternator with a higher-amperage one. For factory or direct-fit replacement parts, the physical size and mounting points are almost always identical. The manufacturers design them this way so a 180-amp alternator for a police package car can fit in the same spot as a 160-amp unit in a civilian model. Think of it as the alternator having a greater power reserve; your car's electrical systems will only draw the amperage they need, but the alternator will be less stressed when meeting peak demand.

The main consideration is for significant jumps in power. If you're going from, say, a 160-amp unit to a 180-amp Mopar unit, the factory wiring is designed to handle it. If you were to install a high-output 250+ amp alternator for a massive stereo system, you would also want to upgrade the main charging wire and ground connections (often called the "Big 3" upgrade) to safely carry the extra current. For a simple, moderate upgrade, though, it's typically a straightforward and beneficial swap.