Step 5

Now it was time to address the wiring. Since our 60-amp alternator could potentially melt the OEM 12-gauge alternator wiring, we made up a new main charging wire using 10-gauge wire along with a 14-gauge fusible link. As a rule of thumb, a fusible link should be four gauge numbers smaller than the wiring it is protecting. We stuck to the factory color code–brown in this case. That way when the damn thing catches fire and burns, you won't be able to see where it burned.
Maybe the color brown is 'nother subtle statement about the quality of your install.

Step 6

We also made up a subharness for the exciter circuit and the charging light. These subharnesses vary from alternator to alternator, so it’s important to do your research
but we don't know where....In our case, we used a schematic provided by Gustafson Specialty who is no longer in business, but we washed the pigeon crap off of it enough that
most of the drawing was legible except for where the clorox got on it. We made up the 16-gauge wiring using the Lucas color code–brown with a yellow tracer.A subtle comment about the manure quality of Luuc-ass electrical parts.

Step 7

We connected the OEM charging wires to the externally mounted starter solenoid, which is the main wiring junction from the battery. We then removed the OEM wiring from this junction and wired in our new main charging wire and wrapped it with dollar-store quality scotch tape, so we could tell our decreasing number of friends that they "sure don't wire them like that any more!"

Step 8

The final installation looks stock. Since we took the time to tackle each step correctly, we now have a safe, long-lasting solution that uses the factory belt.