The upper bushing is already seated in the housing. So, we still had to install the fat lower bushing, insert the crossmember washer/mount into the bushing and onto the locating studs, and run the long bolt up through the cradle. I’ll be honest; we didn’t use a torque wrench, we just gave them the ol’ ugga-dugga. But, the torque specs for the large bolts are 61-72 ft-lbs, while the studs are only 13-20 ft-lbs.
Here are the new Energy HyperFlex differential bushings installed. The lower bushing sits on top of the mount, and the upper bushing is in the housing itself. Two small bolts locate it, and one large bolt holds it to the cradle.
After that, it was on to reinstalling the PPF (77-91 ft-lbs), driveshaft, and subframe connectors. Next were the A-arms. This is the part where you need to pay attention to which side the cammed washer goes on. Hopefully, you heeded my advice earlier and marked both the washer and A-arm so you can get your camber set. If not, just set them straight up, seeing you’ll be going to the alignment shop anyway. Lastly, you’ll reinstall the coilover, slide the axles back in place, then reattach the spindle, rotor, and caliper. Leave the sway bar unattached as you won’t want it connected when aligning it or corner-weighting it anyway.
The front suspension is the same routine as the rear: A-arms, coilover, spindle, rotor, caliper, but you will also need to attach the tie rod. Also, leave the sway bar loose if you are corner weighting it.
One additional thing we did while the A-arms were out of the car (but is not necessary in most cases) was to install Zerk fittings to grease the bushings later on down the line if needed. For most street applications, this is overkill. The Energy grease does a great job, and it’s so thick, I’m not sure it will ever come off (seriously, what is in that stuff?). But, this car is going to see some tough road racing, so we thought it was better to be safe than sorry.