If you read the instructions, you'll know why the two photos on the left are wrong. If you put the mount in a vise in this direction (far right) and heat the mounting tab (not the rubber), it will debond the glue, making it easier to remove the rubber.
The upper bushings are bonded into the differential. Remember, the housing is aluminum, so take your time and try not to mess up the inside of the mounts. We used a drill and a Sawzall to get the rubber out.
Once you’ve got all the rubber removed and the housing cleaned up, it’s time to install the new Energy bushings, which is way easier than removing them. Luckily, neither bushing needs to be bonded like the original ones. The upper bushing goes into its seat inside the housing, and a metal sleeve is inserted in the middle. The lower bushing will be sandwiched in place when you mount the diff.
It's a dirty job, but take your time and be careful not to scar up the inside of the housing. You can clean up the residue with sandpaper then install the new bushing and sleeve.
Put It All Back Together
Trust me — the hard part is over; putting everything back together is the easy part. I won’t go into too much detail as it is just the reverse of what we just went through. But a few tips we figured out along the way might help.
We made sure to install the new bushings into each part as the old ones came out, so we didn’t have to try to remember what went where, later on. All we needed to do at this point was to throw it all back on the car. We started with the rearend first.
It can be a little cumbersome to install the big two-piece bushings that hold the rearend to the cradle if you don’t have some extra hands around. Fortunately, we did, so two guys heaved it up into place with the help of a floor jack to stabilize it, while the other two guys located the bolts.