RL brake pad change DIY
[HR][/HR] Here is a step by step guide to changing the brake pads on your Acura 3.5 RL...
this may also help for other models because the instructions are similar...
It is very easy, and may save you some money

(you can click on the pics to get a larger picture)

what you will need to complete this project:
replacement brake pads
vernier calipers to do some measuring (like disc thickness)
various wrenches (a good socket wrench set is a must)
Molykote M77 pad grease
about 0.5 to 1 hour per wheel for a newbie.

Here is a pic of the tools I used.

(you don't need the air tools, I usually use them cause it's faster)

choose a wheel to start with... I chose to do the front driver side...
the passenger side and rear pads are similar...
if you can do the front pad, you should have no probs in the back...

raise the car, support the car with jack stands and take the wheel off...
if you can't get past this step,
then you should not attempt to change your own brakes.

I like to start by using a brake cleaner to clean off brake dust...
I place a bunch of paper towels or rags below the rotors,
and spray liberally with brake parts cleaner...
the chemical is pretty volitile so it dries pretty fast,
and a lot of the brake dust will have washed into the rags...
the result should be pretty clean assembly, so it's easier to see things and less dust.

don't let the chemicals leach into the ground...
and use a mask for the entire brake change so you don't breathe in the dust...

Okay, first you have to disconect the brake hose bracket from the knuckle...

this frees up the brake hose a little...

Now remove the lower caliper bolt from the caliper body...

Here I am using an adjustable wrench to hold the caliper pin...
(be carefull not to damage the rubber pin boot)
as I try to loosen the caliper bolt with a socket wrench,
the caliper pin will turn with it until it stops against part of the caliper body...
continue loosening the bolt and the caliper pin will eventually loosen,
since the wrench is braced against something...

or you can do the regular way of trying to hold the caliper pin steady as you torque the bolt...
I use the bracing technique cause it is less work...

once the caliper bolt is removed you can pivot and swing the caliper up out of the way...

(Check the hoses and pin boots for damage and deterioration)
the pads on both sides of the disc are now completely visible...
remove the inner and outer pads and carefully remove the pad retainers and shims.
if you don't have replacement shims, sheck the old shims for weakness and reuse if necessary.
(your pads should have come with new shims or you should have bought some with the new pads)
the pads, shims and pad retainers should look like this when disassembled...

try to keep track of how the pads and shims were taken apart,
so that you can make sure the new ones are assembles correctly.

Reassemble the pad and shims apply a thin layer of pad grease
to both sides of the shims and on the OUTSIDE part of the pad
(DO NOT put grease on the rotors or the friction side of the pads)
here is my new pad and shims all greased and reassembled...



for reference, here is a pic of my old pad (on right)
and my new pad (on left)...

looking at the pic, I probably didn't have to change the pads yet...
Oh well... the pad thickness should be 10.5 - 11.5mm thick and service limit 1.6 mm
(not including the backing plate... just the pad material)

Now is a good time to check the caliper and rotor for damage and cracks...

you may want to have your rotors turned to get a more even surface...
but that is not always necessary. if there is deep scoring, then get it done.
If there was noticible vibration when you applied the brakes,
it's probably best to get it checked out by a pro...
also measure to make sure your rotor thickness is okay...

'96 - 98 RL disc thickness is 22.9 - 23.1 mm and max refinish limit is 21 mm
'99 - 01 RL disc thickness is 27.9 - 28.1 mm and max refinish limit is 26.0 mm
('02 - now should be same as '99 - 01 specifications)

If everything looks okay,pop the new pads in...
and don't forget the pad retainers...

here is the inner pad installed...

the inner pad has the wear indicator piece attached to it...
the wear indicator should be oriented toward the bottom...

here is the outer pad installed.

lookin good

Before you can swing the caliper back,
you will need to push in the caliper piston...
I use this tool (I don't know what it's called)...

you use an old pad and the tool to slowly push the piston back in...

be careful not to damage the piston boot...
watch it as the piston is pushed in.

When done the piston should be nearly flush, like this...

you should now be able to swing the caliper back...
be carfull not to damage the pin boot...

once the caliper is back in position,
hold the caliper pin with a wrench and install the caliper bolt with another wrench.
caliper bolt torque: 49 N*m (5.0 kgf*m, 36 lbf*ft)

reinstall the hose bracket on to the knuckle...
check the brake hose for interference and twisting.

press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
One side done!


replace the wheel and lower vehicle...
and repeat all steps for the other side...

the rear is almost the same as the front except...
*there is no brake hose bracket
*the pad thickness should be 8.5 - 9.5mm thick and service linit 1.6 mm
*'96 - 98 RL rear disc thickness is 8.9 - 9.1 mm and max refinish limit is 7.5 mm
*'99 - 01 RL rear disc thickness is 11.9 - 12.1 mm and max refinish limit is 10.0 mm
*caliper bolt torque: 23 N*m (2.3 kgf*m, 17 lbf*ft)

Once done, press the brake pedal several times again to make sure they are working and go for a nice test drive...


follow new car procedures for breaking in new pads.
When you are done, you can bask in the knowledge that you've saved some significant dough.



please be careful, use these instructions at your own risk... if you are not comfortable with DIY, I would not attempt this.