part 2
for all his concerns in the trans.
yes I reuse the big nuts. never have purchase one new. the rim of nut can be reused as long as it has a fresh lip to peen. used nut bites harder than a fresh one. when you remove after peened the threads get slightly distorted and act like lock nut even before peening. 1st tip of day. if you tighten nut and the nut lands in a spot where it was already peened. you can shave a few tough off bottom of nut. now it will clock to a new position. this takes about 30 seconds. and saves about 5 bucs a nut. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............................................tran smission shims. yes I cut my own shims. I also shave back side of bearing race to get clearances I want. are brass shims inferior? harldy. this is were the "certified tech" was most upset. claiming no body does it. it simply isnt done . its unacceptable. blah blah blah. Brass is the same stuff your sycros are made up. they are the best material to use when there is metal to metal friction. it is far superior to using steel for the job. if you dont believe me try shaving brass some time. I tried adding clearance the back of a sycro one time and was flabbergasted at how long on my table sander it took to shave a few though off. I tried for ten minutes and gave up. steel will shave a few though about one minute. mistu doesnt use brass for these shims because it would be ten times the cost and it isnt necessary. Orlandos second rant was why I stack shims when I can just buy the correct height. stacking is not a problem its actually advantageous. this shim is not really a shim. the proper term is thrust surface. the bearing race is not stationary. it turns. not very fast but it does turn. maybe 50rpm tops. it rides on film of oil both sides of shim so is very resilient to wear while turning. thrust bearing (shim) job is to properly space the race. thats its only job. adding shims only adds thrust surface. same as going from single plate clutch to twin plate clutch. you are doubling your frictional surfaces. This "certified tech" didnt understand the function of this shim. hell he couldn.t even answer to me what he set the preload to. his exact reply was "uh, I dont have that information" this was after he informed me that he had to refer to the factory manual in order to correct my unacceptable workmanship. The reason I asked is because the factory preloads are completely useless when building a high performance trans. You want to set your preloads tighter than factory specs. This allows the shafts to slow down faster when throttle is lifted. This allows faster shifts as syncors job becomes much easier. When I explained this to Orlando during our somewhat heated conversation he asked what does that have to do with shimming the center diff?? really you took trans apart and you cant see that all those shafts are connected to one another? do you think maybe slowing one down might also slow the other two? this where I think to my self certified or not you dont have enough up stairs to do intelligent work on a transmission. I myself by the way have done transmission rebuilds for Porsche, VW, Subaru, Toyota, Honda, Ford, Chevy and likley some I forgot about. I havent opened a single manual yet. This includes buying a car with transmission in the trunk completely disassembled. XR4Ti turbo. car I never worked on before. Was able to piece the trans back together with no pictures helping me. That ugly thrust ring by the way is smooth and pretty by the way. The brass shim would simply bite into that surface. the brass was the new thrust surface. Something this tech couldnt understand and was very upset about. I will tell everyone here this is how I do it. It works. I will continue to do it this way.
end of part 2