Thanks for the kind words guys. We try and treat all our customer's cars like they're our own.
Originally Posted by
vtecpower
Originally Posted by
Alpha
Grab some popcorn or just skip to the dyno sheets and video
We recently finished building this 2008 Mitsubishi Evo X. When it first came to us it came in to diagnose the clutch pedal sticking to the floor, smoking and a tune. He couldn't take it to the previous shop that built it as they had skipped town for the fifth time and stolen parts from him.
The SSP clutch master cylinder looked like a dinosaur had chewed on the locking ring. The compression and leakdown numbers were terrible. Oil was leaking past the seal and turbine end piston. One of the two fuel filters was clogged. The fuel injectors were flowing horribly and atomisation was almost none existant. The block was not usable. It had been cut, partially filled and welded. One of the pistons was partially melted. The rings were shot. Two of the JUN rods were bent. The transfer case was leaking fluid due to lack of sealant. The wideband o2 sensor was dead due to leaded fuel. The only thing that was decent on the bottom end was the main bearings, rod bearings and crankshaft.
So we end up pulling everything and begin inspection of what we can and can't use. Order a new block from Mitsubishi. It was damaged in shipping. Had to ship it back before they would send another block out. The block was "misplaced" by the shipping company during shipping. It magically is found at the end of their investigation. This is two weeks later. Order the new rods from JUN. Send JE the original JUN pistons to sample. Send PTE the turbo that had been "rebuilt" by the previous builders but never really had been rebuilt. We end up putting a dynamic big shaft seal and gapless turbine end piston in there to assure no oil issues with it. Given all the issues everything was coming together. The owner and us had spoke about doing a standalone on the car. So we ended up wiring an AEM EMS Series 2 from a Honda in with the stock ecu. The stock ecu is retained for the dbw and idle control. After figuring out the cam control, dbw and everything else the car ran great. The knock control is setup very aggressive and is done via frequency and voltage.
Put everything in
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