Originally Posted by
Empire
if you have a healthy engine, then I do see why 0 would be a problem... I mean, in Florida, there really isn't any reason to run anything higher than 5 anyway. 5 weight is pretty much the "all year, all season" weight for Florida.
Unless of course you just don't like how the polymers have to "stretch" so far to go from 40 to 0 and back. But even then, you're going to be changing your oil again before that even becomes a problem.
If you really really don't like how thin it is, then get a case, and add a quart of Lucas to the mix. That'll average it out.
at 25 bucks, even buying the lucas you're still cheaper than what the part's store is charging right now for it.
The 0W part of the 0W40 is the winter cold flow rating of the oil, and deals with the oils ability to circulate in cold temperatures, and hence provide wear protection in cold starts. It is not the actual viscosity of the oil, it is merely a cold flow rating.
The actual winter cold flow testing temperature will range from
-10 deg. C ( 14 deg. F) to as low as -35 deg. C (-31 deg. F ), and will vary depending on the anticipated SAE "W" grade of the oil being tested.
The higher number of any multi grade engine oil is tested at 212 deg. F, which is very near the normal engine operating temp.
For example the only difference between 15W40 , 10W40 , 5W40 , and 0W40 is the ability of each to flow in the cold, an SAE 15W40 will not cold flow as well as a 10W40, and the 10W40 will not cold flow as well as the 5W40, and the 0W40 outflows them all in cold temps.
When your engine reaches normal operating temperature the viscosity of the 0w40, 5W40, 10W40, and the 15W40 are exactly the same and that would be 40 weight
sorry not trying to hijack you thread