that smells like a blown headgasket all over the place...

not sure why you did all of the other things first if it was smoking white smoke like that...

any particular reason?
If a car is idling like crap, then you need to make sure each cylinder is firing the way it is supposed to before moving on to things like MAF sensors.
There are basics that you have to go through.
air
fuel
spark
compression
timing

The car will tell you where you should start.
Chances are, if it is idling, and generally running like crap, then you are getting smoke.
Sooty, black smoke indicates way too much fuel.
A darker, grayish, blueish smoke says you are burning oil. A note on that, with the way modern oils are, it is possible to be burning oil and not smoking. Mobil 1 for instance doesn't smoke. Most other synthetics barely smoke. (if you get an injector that is stuck open, just dumping fuel, you'll get a gray smoke, but it will smell like a blown up gas station. Its pretty identifiable)
If it is white smoke, then you are burning coolant. Antifreeze will dump smoke like a bitch. However, if you are full of mostly water, you'll barely get any smoke at all. Water just steams, but the steam collects on the exhaust and drips out the tail pipe. This takes a significant amount of time to gather up enough water to get out the tail pipe.

If you have an exhaust that smells a lot like fuel, then start with spark.
If it is oil, then check the common oil things, like spark plug oil seals.
If it is coolant, then it is more than likely a head gasket.

If you can't narrow it down that way, then it is decently safe to assume that you have air. So move on to the other things.
Start with Spark as it is the easiest. You don't need to throw parts at it. The quickest way to tell is if you pull each one out at a time and ground it to the chassis so you can see the spark.
Got spark?
move to fuel.
If it is possible, pull the injectors out so you can see for yourself that they are spraying fuel.
You can ohm test and injector and it tests to be good, but doesn't actually spray. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Then check fuel pressure. You won't be able to "eye ball" if it is enough fuel. Ohm test to see if they test right.
At this point, you have everything apart and the engine should be getting hot, so you're not too far off from being able to do a good compression test.
get that done. That will help confirm, or rule out things like blown head gasket.
If everything up to this point is good, and it compression tests to be good. (note to that, it needs to be even. Much more than +/- 5 and it won't run well, however, if "spec" says 180, it will still start and run even if they all read 80. It'll be slow, and probably smoke, but it will start and run)
Then go over the timing. Disconnect the appropriate sensors and hit it with a timing light and see what happens. It "should" show you the right timing. Then plug those sensors back in and do it again. That will help you figure out what the ecu is trying to do to "fix" the problem.
If all of that is good, then it has to be a sensor. Too much, or not enough fuel, then that would be coolant temp. if the spark time does weird things, like retard 10 plus degrees, then look to coolant temp and or knock sensor. check the MAF/MAP then check the O2 sensors.


Sorry for the long ass rant, but from your other post, it sounded like you just starts shot gunning parts at it with little to no rhyme or reason. That typically doesn't solve the problem and ends up costing a crap load.
There is a "right way" to diagnose something and a wrong way. Blindly guessing is the wrong way.
Figure out what the problem is. What symptoms do you see. Then figure out what could cause those symptoms. Then start with the most likely and work your way through.
Don't go from spark plug wires to the MAF "just cuz"