Choices
Filter Part Number
AC Delco DuraGuard PF1127
Auto Pride CF402AP
CarQuest 85334
Fram x2 XG3593A
Fram Tough Guard TG3593A
Fram Double Guard DG3593A
Fram Extra Guard PH3593A
Hastings LF402
Hastings LF461
Honda OEM (Canada) S30281
K&N HP-1004
ProLine PPL-14459
ProLine PPL-24458
Purolator Premium Plus (Oversized) L24458
Purolator PureONE (Oversized) PL24458
Purolator PureONE PL24459
STP S2808
Union Sangyo 15400-POH-305
Wal-Mart SuperTech ST2808
Wix 51334
The above list is the list of the filters that were physically inspected for the purposes of this review. Additionally, we also inspected the OEM Acura NSX filter, the WEB W-3429 filter, and the Motorcraft FL-2005. These later filters do not fit on the Honda Prelude, but do give it some insights into some other manufacturer's filters.
Oversized Filters
Many folks have an interest in using an oversized filter. Oversized filters have an advantages over OEM sized filters:
1. Larger oil capacity
2. Better oil cooling due to the larger can surface area
3. More filter medium, resulting in less oil flow restriction and longer serviceable life.
4. Longer engine oil usage.
What are the considerations when looking for an oversized filter? First, it's got to fit the physical space restrictions on the Prelude. This means that it's got to fit behind the engine, have enough clearance between the firewall and the engine, fit the oil filter mounting base plate, and have the same inlet threading (20mm x 1.5mm). Second, the by-pass valve needs to have the relatively same stiffness as the OEM by-pass specification. The reason for this is fairly simple: Too weak a spring will cause the filter to by-pass all the time, and to strong a spring may cause the filter to restrict oil flow and lower oil pressure. The OEM specification is 9-11PSI.
Oil Change Intervals
Oversized filters offer you the chance to use extended drain intervals with your motor oil.
Honda recommends that you change the oil in your Prelude every 7500 miles. Many dealers attempt to get you change the oil in your car every 3000 miles. Changing your oil every 3000 miles is basically a complete waste of your money, and bad for the environment. (That used oil needs to go somewhere...)
Even the worst of oil filters will last for 3000 miles without any problems at all, and almost any motor oil will last for 7500 miles.
If you use Redline, Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Royal Purple, or Valvoline synthetic motor oils you can easily run your oil in your engine without any problems for the OEM recommended change interval of 7500 miles.
The only time you have to consider changing your motor oil at shorter intervals is if your car is not a daily driver, and will not warm up to full operating temperature for at least 30 minutes a day. The reason for this is that small amounts of moisture (water) in the air tend to soak slowly into your motor oil. (The oil system is not truly closed, even though you have an oil cap.) The water mixes with the oil and other matter in the oil system and forms acids that can eat your engine parts over time. Warming up the engine causes the moisture to leave the motor oil. If you are changing your oil every 3000 miles (because you drive the car once a week) or at a specific time intervals (every 4-6 months because you aren't putting 3000 miles on the oil), then it's not as import to use synthetic motor oil.
Some people will disagree with the above, but the fact is that just about every brand name non-synthetic oil (or "dino") will last 3000 miles and have almost no significant wear to the oil or engine. It is not cost effective to use synthetic oil if you car sits for long intervals with low mileage.
The chief advantages to using synthetic motor oils are typically considered to be better at extended drain intervals, have better thermal stability, better cold flow characteristics, superior additive packages, and a lower coefficient of friction (resulting in lower engine wear and better gas mileage).
Engine Oil Change Testing
There is only one way to actually prove how well your oil and oil filter are actually working: Send your oil out to a laboratory and have them tell you what is actually in the oil!
I use Black Stone Labs, many other folks use Oil Analyzers. Both companies will send you reports like this:
Notice on the report that I used 10w40 AMSOIL synthetic oil and that the oil was perfectly fine at 6350 miles. The lab indicated that I could be using the oil for a longer interval. I went on to use the same oil for this report with an AMSOIL SDF-44 oil filter for 13500 miles. It turns out that this oil should be changed every 10000 to 11000 miles. I'm still using it, but just changing the oil every 7500 miles with either a Mobil 1, AMSOIL, or Fram x2 filter. (It's simpler to change the oil and the filter at once.)
In addition to giving you an idea as to how well your oil is being filtered, the lab tests show you just what elements are present in the oil. By carefully looking at the list of elements you can determine problems with your engine. The following picture shows a list of elements and their common meaning when present in motor oil:
The biggest advantage to having your oil tested periodically is that you can determine engine component failure prior to the engine actually breaking down. For example: If anti-freeze is found on your oil then you likely have gasket failure of some sort (head gasket). It's probably cheaper to fix the gasket then drive the car until the anti-freeze starts leaking seriously and causes the bearings to fail, etc.
Oil Filter Inspection Information
Currently, I do not have a web version of the oil inspection information. I need to measure a few filters and write up some more information. Information on oil filters in Excel format can be downloaded here:
Click Here to Download the Oil Comparison Spread Sheet (MS Excel)!
Honda Prelude Oil Filter Recommendations
Currently, it appears that there are four options for a decent oil filter for the Prelude with the OEM spec's:
1. The Mobil 1 oil filter is well constructed and a decent filter. Unfortunately, I'm not been able to get my hands on a stock spec'ed Mobil 1 filter (but have taken apart a few oversized ones). However, I have been able to discern that it's made on the same line as the K&N filter, but will a media that is slightly better at filtration. Based on testing by others I still think this is a really good filter.
2. The AMSOIL SDF-20 filter is well constructed and lab tests show that it's an excellent filter. At 6350 miles this filter was able to generate the above lab test report and show that 10w40 oil in an H22A4 causes no problems. On the other hand, it's big brother the SDF-44 did not filter oil well at 13,000 miles. Proving that an oversized filter is not always a good thing when it comes to filtration.
3. The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter. The internal construction is the same as the Mobil 1 filter, but it does not filter the down to as small a particle size. This filter is meant to maintain higher flow while still actively filtering, as opposed to by-passing. Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20.
4. The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far. Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (all other Fram filters have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the filter was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this.
What Not To Use: Bosch, STP, and Wal-Mart Supertech
While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. With most filters there is an obvious and discrete by-pass valve, but with these filters the can spring and the by-pass valve are the same. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire filter assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom). (The can spring / by-pass valve would flip over and into the filter assembly.)