Decarbonizing your rotary, (performance/maitnance)
Some of you who have done something similar to this have noticed improvements in driveability and performance. Some of you havent done this yet.... For those that didnt know, or werent sure how to do it, here you go.
Seafoam is the preferred method of carbon removal, and it will not cause an engine to blow after use. It's very effective and gentler on the seals than the old ATF that has been used for many years. Regular use, i.e., a can in the fuel tank with each oil change is a good maintenance practice.
With high mileage and heavily carboned engines, there is a risk of cleaning out enough carbon that the engine may end may allowing more fuel/oil injected mix to bypass the worn oil control o-rings, producing more oil smoke in the exhaust. For those engines, they were near terminal to begin with as the carbon build up has been masking/sealing worn components
I've found that after the treatment, since the engine usually runs better, an owner may tend to push it harder with the new found performance and that's where engine failures arise from. There is the odd chance on a heavily carboned engine that the treatment may loosen large chunks of still hardened carbon that may catch and break an apex seal.
For this reason, if this is the 1st decarbonizing treatment in many years/miles, it's best to introduce the Seafoan through a vacuum line and allow the engine to set for a day or two, thus allowing the Seafoam to thoroughly soften all of the carbon. For this process,I recommend sucking up 1/2 can of Seafoam at idle at a fast enough rate to kill the engine. Let it sit and soak, the use the 2nd 1/2 can in a slower ingestion to help pull out the remaining carbon.
I sometimes follow up with water pulled in through the same vacuum line to clean the rest of the remaining carbon out. Inside a combustion chamber, water will literally steam clean the inside.
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Tampa Bay Rotary Owners Club Member # 4
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PIT KREW
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