Originally Posted by
NI_racing
Sounds to me like home boy got you. The front has 100 and the rear rotor is only pulling 60? How long does it need to seat in? Its not a piston engine.....

Cides why would the engine need new housing? Simple answer.... cuz he f%^&*d up the apex seals wich scared the hell outta the housing.... which explains the 3mm seals... or he butchered the port.... in which case, he' have to start over...
Anywho, it sounds like the rotor itself is toast in the rear.... which could run you a pretty penny pending what you wanna put in it. The next trick is getting a rear rotor that will balance with the front rotor. they have weight codes stamped on em, and mazda or some of the rotary shops will be able to tell you which codes match up. You may need to get the new rotor, or slightly used rotor machined to balance out. Get on RX7club.com and throw up your issue in the 1st gen section and then go to the for sale section and try and hunt down 12a rotors... Still may be the housing thats messed up... but with a 3mm seal, i would say its the rotor. Could be something as simple as dude not putting the seals in properly, or could be a f%^&d up rotor... either way, you gotta open the keg to find out.
food for thought, while your contemplating what to do, find a matching set of 13b rotors that are still in spec, and put them in the 12a.

Look around on 7club and google and you'll understand what im talking bout. I think you'll like the benefits of that better than rebuilding what you have now.
ALL ROTARY ENGINES BEFORE 1986 ARE 3mm apex seals. I think it's got used seals or something.. rotor could be fine. I'd open it up, MEASUER EVERYTHING, and replace all the worn parts that need to be replaced. BTW, I want to say about 75 psi is the minimal # for compression. 60 is definitely low compression, but you may have more useable parts than if a seal was blown & you were reading 0 - 0 - 0. BTW- was it 60 & 100 on ALL ROTOR FACES?
have fun.