Originally Posted by
T/S #25
That is totally incorrect. Fresh or not, when the crank is installed and the main caps are torqued to spec, the crank should turn free. When you twist it by hand, it should be able to rotate by itself. If it doesn't, there is something wrong, bearing clearance to tight, bent crank, etc. I would assume the shop would have told you the crank was bent when they turned it down. Did you have the block align honed? Maybe it isn't a problem with the crank at all.
when i took the block, crank, rods and pistons to the shop. i just had the guy hot tank the block and measure the crank to make sure it was .010-.010 so i could get bearings. and to make sure nothing was cracked. i figured that if it was bent he would have told me. maybe not....
ok i bought this shortblock from someone. the block has arp main studs, not sure if the block was aligned honed when they were installed. cross hatch machine marks on mains looked pretty fresh. also the oil holes on the crank have been opened up for better oil flow....i wasnt the one who had the crank turned. this is, is I took this motor apart. it turned over pretty nicely when everything was together. i have had the crank out of the block for a while now. you guys think that could have bent it? either way something is wrong. and i know it.
i even tried to put the crank into another block with my bearings that the machine shop let be use, same problem.
you guys think its worth turning it down to like .020-.020 or should i just get a new crank? if i turn it more i have to buy new bearings. i will probably have to buy new ones anyway. no point to start out with ones that look like they got 10,000 miles on them lol
Thanks