-with the car on the ground break free the 30mm (or 32mm) axle nut with a big ass breaker bar and some one stomping on the brakes. i had to use a piece of 2 1/2 conduit that was longer then the car.
-jack it up high enough for you to pull the tranny out.
-remove the wheels
-remove the lower ball joint (17mm nut)
-remove the bolt/nut that connect the shock to the lower control arm (17mm)
-hit the side of the lower spindle with a sledge till the ball joint pops out
-pop the hub assembly up and spin it out, then repeat on the other side
-after both are free, remove the CV axles with a flat head or crow bar, be careful not to rip the rubber boots on them or you will be replacing them.
-if it has a half shaft then unbolt that from the back of the block and remove it too
-remove the dust cover underneath the oil pan
-disconnect the clutch line
-remove the starter (2x 14mm)
-remove the speed and reverse sensor connectors
-put a jack under the motor as close to the tranny as you can get without putting it under the tranny
-break free all 17mm tranny bolts that hold it to the block, there also maybe 2 in the back on the T-bracket
-remove all mounts except the driver side mount (this will act as a pivit point later)
-finish removing all 17mm tranny bolts, except for 2 on the top
-lower the jack a little till everything is leaning to the left
-start with a big ass flat head screw driver and start prying it away from the block, working up to a crow bar
-once you have about a half inch gap, remove the last 2 bolts and pull the tranny off (it may be a bitch to remove but just rock it left to right a little and pull hard)
-set the tranny aside
-i suggest you spray the bolts with liquid wrench and put the clutch alignment tool in the drive shaft spot before pulling the clutch
-use a 10mm or 12mm 12 point socket to take the pressure plate bolts off
-now on the tranny grab the shifter fork and looking inside the tranny push it away from you and pull off the throw out bearing (pull out and to the right)
-and do the opposite to put the new one on
-put the clutch alignment tool inside the clutch
-and push it into the drive shaft hole (that's what she said )
-with the tool in, slide the pressure plate over top and start putting the bolts back in
-tighten them opposite of each other (the plate won't seat at first but as you tighten it'll seat against the flywheel
-remove the alignment tool
-now with a friend (but i do B-series trannies by myself) put the tranny back into place, guiding it with the drive shaft, rotate it till it seats and push it in
-put the tranny bolts back in, and again tighten opposite of each other
-jack the motor/tranny back up and put the mounts back on
-hook up all the sensors, shift linkage, ground and starter
-replace the half shaft if you have one, bolt it tight to the back of the block
-replace the CV axles, push them in as far as they'll go and then hit them with a sledge hammer till the seat inside the tranny/half shaft. they should be flush. if they don't go in tight or keep popping out then the c-ring is probably bad and you'll have to get new ones from the dealership
-set the end of the axle in between the strut fork and spin the hub assembly back around
-guide the axle back into the bearing slot (you may want to grease them too)
-push it back tight and then hit it again with the sledge to make sure it's seated nice
-replace the 17mm bolt and nut, then do the bottom ball joint nut
-retighten the axle nut
-wheels blah blah blah...

your welcome
btw this may not be the best way, but i'm a backyard mechanic so whatever works!