Uh... There are probably only about three people in world who could surf a wave like that. I doubt any one of them could be fully engulfed in the white wash of the crest on a wave like that, and not be blown clean off their board and tossed 100 yards across the water. That kind of pressure could cruch the board, not to mention that guy. I think there has been some good old fashioned Tom Foolery performed on that one. How could you get out in a surge like that? Not paddling out; and none of my friends would be towwing me out on the back of their personal watercraft!
John