Originally Posted by
Z28ricer
The fronts on that car being on spacers doesnt surprise me, however the rears, with a 255 (still a bit small for a 9" wheel) are going to get into it with the quarter panel if you hit any decent bumps.
I also really dont see how you ended up with a 8.5+30 being sunken, when thats going to be 7mm closer to the outside of the car, than tims old R32 16x8+30's, unless by sunken, you mean able to have the suspension compressed and not cut the tire with the fender.
The 255's would rub way up inside the wheel arch in the rear, but not on the fender. That's mostly ride height. My big bummer was that I wanted to run 275's (which I think look rad on 9's) out back but would have had to go down to a +45 offset wheel instead of the +35.
As far as the fronts go, yes they're farther out than Tim's old GT-R, but Tim ran 15mm spacers up front. That puts his setup roughly equal to my setup (with 10mm's), plus or minus tire buldge on a 16, stretch with a 225 on a 8.5, and differing camber.
Here's a few wheel fitment facts for you guys: For every degree of camber you add, the top of the tire moves in 6mm. Once you start lowering past about 1.5" of fender gap, the LCA goes past horizontal and the bottom of the tire starts moving in. These are facts. Given this, a car with low camber and mild ride height could look Mexican on a particular set of wheels, where the same wheels on a car with 1.5" more drop and 1.5* more camber would get you a more pleasing look.
I'm not on Z28's train, but I do think there's a happy, proper wheel fitment that's not Demon Camber or Mexican Lowrider, but also not stock Chevy Cavalier. To get that, here's what I do: Pick a ride height and rough alignment spec (only camber needed). Look at your car and estimate where that will put your existing tire setup (for me that was stock SE's). Now pick a tire width and get a tape measure. With the tape measure, see where the outside of that tire will be (I went from 205 to 245, so I added 20mm). Then, figure out how much farther out you want your new tire to be. This is the amount you'll subtract from your old offset. Now, just select a rim width that corresponds to your tire. Go back and calculate whether this will hit the strut/coil. Done. When I had stock SE's and 205's (on s14), I added 3mm to compensate for 1/2* less camber, 20mm for a 245 versus 205, and 18mm more to move it farther away from the strut. That's 41mm farther out from the top outer edge of the stock 205. Summary: As far as rubbing, it's really not about wheel width. It's about tire width and offset. The rim width just dictates the amount of stretch/buldge.