Originally Posted by MCOR

We only sell active crossovers for applications when pushing the higher wattages to seperate mids and tweets (IE: cheap and loud). We leave the head unit mostly flat and the amps in full range mode. You usually run two channels of RCA's from the HU to the crossover, then it has three outputs from there (front, rear, and sub). You can easily get by with a single crossover by splitting one pair of channels for tweets, and one pair for mids. The third channel is of course strictly for subs. It kills the fadeability from the HU but most people will just set it at the amps (or most active crossovers have a preamp output level adjustment).

This is not the preferred way to do it if going for SQL, but if you just want loud, seperated sound from the mids and the tweets at high wattages, this will work great and will keep from blowing the tweets. Those "bass blockers" only half-ass protect the tweets. The crossover will keep them from blowing. For your system, you can even get a cheap Kicker crossover or the like for under $100 new. This is how many people with "cheap" lower budget systems set them up to cleanly reproduce decent sound. I have heard some absolute crap equipment sound suprisingly clean when the person knows how to properly tune and utilize active crossovers, amps, and properly set the speakers for staging (we have discussed this many times here before...)