Since I went through and typed a whole list of stuff over AIM (didn't mind in the least), but I figured it probably wouldn't hurt to compile all of this stuff into one common thread for us all to update with what to look for when purchasing a used 5.0 Mustang. We don't even have to make this a sticky, just leave it in the database for us to refer people to as needed.


-be forwarned, the auto will be a dog. AOD mustangs are 15 second cars when new. Expect a typical AOD GT mustang to run about a 15.5 or higher. They will get much faster from there, but this is what you're up against now.


-there are a few things to check, like engine oil and tranny fluid (clearish, no burnt smell)

- radiator (remove cap and look for rust/crap in the rad. core. If there is it will need a new radiator or that one cleaned which is about $100 either way


- The rear end is whats called a 4 link
basically it has 4 "bars" that connect the axle to the chassis.
Where each of these 4 bars connect to the body of the car, they can "tear" the metal if the car has been abused. If the car is a stock auto, you don't have much to worry about. Stock 5 speed or modded anything, look VERY carefully. Check all 4 of these points to make sure they are firmly attached to the car, no twisting or bending at all



-Pop the hood and look at where the fenders bolt to the car along the top. If the paint is mismatched, patchy, shiny, or the bolts look messed with, the car's been in an accident. Not a problem if it drives straight, but you should know



-Also, you will see a framerail that runs to the very front of the car (best seen with the hood up looking down, right behind the headlights), make sure this is straight, not rusted, and no ripped holes (if they rearend someone, the front bumper will shove back into the frame rail and rip its mounting holes), again, not a huge issue if the car looks and drives straight, but you should know it

-There really aren't any rust prone areas on these cars, except for the hatch (around the back window). You can't really fix the rust, but you should be able to find one that isn't rusted in the junkyard


-I would personally look to make sure the stock radio is in the car and looks like its been there a while, I really hate butchered wiring for radio's.

-Look around the windshield opening for small cracks in the paint. If the car was driven hard or wrecked, the car will flex alot and start cracking minorly. Not a good thing, but if the rest of the car is a good deal, its not a deal breaker


-Oh, one HUGE thing (if you care).
On the passenger side of the motor, right above and behind the valve cover there will be 2 rubber hoses connecting at the firewall. These are for the heater core. Pay very close attention to them. If they are disconnected, or are looped together, it means the heater core leaks (they will do it eventually). Also run the heater on high for a while with the engine idling. Smell for antifreeze on the inside, look for water leaking in the passenger footwell, and look for a slimy "haze" on the windshield. All of these mean the heater core is leaking coolent. The problem is the whole dash has to come out to fix the heater core. Its a major PITA for a $60 part but if you want a working heater, its very important, if you don't care, no biggie, if it starts leaking, you can bypass it


-When you crank the car up, watch the dash for the warning lights. You should see "Check engine", "Air bag", and a few others, but those two are the most important. If those lights don't light up when you go to start the car, be careful. He may have pulled those bulbs to keep the lights from being on while driving, which means the car could have an air bag or engine code
Again, nothing too huge, but you should know


-Also check to make sure the headlights work (low and high beam). The switch for them (part of the turn signal stalk) wears out the contacts sometimes and its about $70 new.

-Power window motors go from time to time, but they are $20 from the auto parts store and not too difficult to replace

- Listen for the fuel pump humming in the back. If you can hear it over road noise or think its loud, its probably about to go bad. A pump capable of 500 hp is $100 and takes about an hour to install


-Other than that, here's what WILL be wrong with it.

-It will squeak and rattle some while driving over bumps or highway speeds, not bad, but you'll hear it. A set of $65 subframe connectors will REALLY tighten the car up alot


-The map light won't work if its the kind that swivels from the roof (probably not because the car has a sunroof)

-The door for the ashtray will flop around and have a broken spring but again, nothing big

Again, if you have any info you'd like to add, please feel free. If this sounds like a really stupid idea, its 1:30 am