750 is too big for a street car.
If you go with big heads and a big cam then you could use a 750,.. but would need to be jetted down a little bit and it would still be prone to flooding out especially with a DP carb.
Ideally for the street/strip a nice 600 - 650 Holley will be all you need.
Tons and tons of different intakes to choose from. Short runners, low profile, dual plane manifolds are better suited for daily driver duty with economy in mind. Wont support much power at high rpms.
A good street/strip intake with a mild cam would be something like a single plane Torquer II. With carb,.. will fit under a stock hood with a short air cleaner. You'll get decent low end torque for the street,.. and modest higher rpm power for the track.
If you have a good cam and heads a Vic jr is probably the best street/strip intake out there. Wont fit under a stock hood though.
As for ignition,.. Mallory, MSD,.. they all make good computerless setups.
I prefer the single wire Proform HEI. (Well 2 wires if you count the tach wire). All it needs to function is a 12v lead wire. Set timing and viola. Great maintainence free distributor. Runs $229 on Summits catalog. The only issue with the HEI is distributor and manifold clearance. If you run the standard heater hoses you have to plug off the the normal tall neck that goes in the front of the intake and use the one normally allotted for the temp sensor. It interferes with adjusting the timing. Then use a water neck that has a threaded provision or drill and tap one into it for a temp sensor. Also,.. the AC lines get in the way with this cap also. So no AC either. If you want normal heat and AC use something like a Mallory. But you'll need the coil and duraspark box also. HEI has everything built in one unit.
As for fuel. You will need to remove the EFI pump out of the tank. Add about 8" of fuel hose to the fuel hat where it would have normally tied into the fuel pump. Then set it back in the tank. You'll need an inline pump and filter as close to the tank as possible. Most inline pumps dont like to suck the fuel,.. they like to push it. So dont mount the pump up in the engine bay. You'll have a hard time getting it to prime.
What I do is remove the solid fuel lines that normally plug into the fual rails. I use a fuel plug into the soft hose and then add more line to run to a fuel regulator. It s good idea to get an inline fuel pressure gauge so you know where you stand. Set the fuel pressure to about 7 PSI (I've found this works best with street Holley carbs and 7 - 9 PSI for larger carbs and bigger motors). You can cap off the return line and dead head he fuel at the carb or use a return style regulator and send it back to the tank via the return line. But since its not going back to cool the pump,.. its pretty pointless to me.
The rest of the wiring like the fuel injector plugs and other sensors you can use your imagination to do what ever you want with them as you wont need them anymore unless you decide to go back to EFI. I usually roll them up and tuck them out of the way.
You CAN use the stock throttle cable. Advanced auto sells a cheap little GM style carb throttle cable bracket that mounts to a single bolt on the carb. Then use the little screw hole that is on the plate on the cable to mount it to the bracket.
The whole thing from start to finish can be done in about 2 - 3 hours,.. depending on how long it takes you to clean up the old intake gasket off the head ports. Thats the only tedius part that I really dont like.
Edit:
Here is an 86 I did. Its kinda half assed,.. but you get the idea.
I used a Holley 600 vac secondary 4160 carb, a Performer 289 intake and HEI carb and a summit branded fuel pump. No problems at all. Car had some bad rust in some really bad places. I ended up parting the car out. Motor had over 200k on it but ran absolutly fantasitc with the carb setup. You'd never know there was that kind of mielage on it.
Before:
After:
Hurst