SilverFox Tranny info:

1000hp ULTRA Performance 4R70W: This trans comes completely assembled with:
RAYBESTOSE BLUE RACING Clutches, all STAMPED STEEL DRUMS, 2" HIGH CARBON PERFORMACE OD Band, MECH DIODE, 8 Dirrect clutches, 7 Forward clutches, 4 Intermediate clutches,
Transbrake capable 4 clutch reverse, 2.7" OD SERVO with sealed pin and comes with
MANY INTERNAL LUBE MODS including several that I have pioneered myself.
TAILSHAFT LUBE circuit, WELDED SUN GEAR SHELL, 300M HARD INPUT SHAFT
are included. This trans has special machined drums to accomidate more clutches. The valve body is a PA Manual VB with Brake.

Dirty Dog converter info:

The stall should be about 4000 but I wasn't sure as to a HP number to tell him so we will see how it does and adjust it as needed.

I asked Alan (Dirty Dog) for some info on the converter he was buiding for me and here was his reply:

The front cover I use is a very thick billet piece. the down side is it is heavier than other companies covers, but it is also much stronger.
The lockup piston I use is a fully billet piece which is about 4 times as thick as what PI uses and also larger in diameter giving more clutch surface area and stronger hold. The PI lockup piston is a thin plate of steel welded on to a stock early design (ford updated it in 96 due to too many lockup shudder problems) piston.
The turbine I use is a 9.5 GM which is the same as any of the aftermarket companies use. I then send this to be furnace brazed for strength. PI does this as well. Most other companies do not. I then tig weld the tips to make the component virtually indestructible.
The spline is then fully welded into this piece and I only use hardened splines to prevent spline strippage.
The next component is the stator. This is the serious upgrade to this converter. PI uses the stock GM roller clutch as do most companies. I am replacing this component with a much stronger roller clutch because I fear your power would break that stock component.
The pump is done as the turbine is I have them furnace brazed. If I make stall changes to them I tig the tips as well. Usually the braze is sufficient to hold these just fine.