the dp works if you have a kit that works with it or fab an elbow piece from turbo to dp. or if bottom mount it works fine.

if you use -4an, you might end up needing to use a restrictor, especially if you are using a ball bearing turbo. journal bearing turboes usually use .065" restrictors, and ball bearing turboes use somewhere around .035". Those can be had from jgstools.com or atpturbo or your local oil supply line shop. i prefer to run -3an in my car, it negates the need for the restrictor, and if you've ever dealt with oil lines, you'll know that the less connections and pieces, the better.

the jgs tools kit is nice because it includes a stainless steel oil tee for the mount by the filter. DO NOT USE BRASS. brass works, but it will fail. i have had 2 fail on me before, a normal one and a "high end" brass one. they do not take the vibrations too well, and i have experimented with different mountings for the line to keep vibrations down and it still did it. i also avoid trying to tee too much off one outlet. if you have an oil pressure gauge aftermarket, you dont need to reconnect the stock oil sensor, it's just a dummy light...and now you can monitor the actual oil pressure values on the aftermarket gauge.

when doing the return, if you DO NOT HAVE AN A/C COMPRESSOR, you can take the oil pan, go 1 inch down, and 3 inches back from the front, and that's your return. if you are using a bottom mount t2 setup, i would prefer to go farther back, towards the shallower area, since that turbo sits a bit to the back in regard to the engine.

if you have a/c you may want to go 5 or 6 inches back to clear all that nonsense. depending on the line you use, it might be a bit variable seeing as some lines are more flexible. you just don't want to be going down under the a/c compressor and back up or something, where the oil can pool in the line and cause a clog/not flow well.

-10an or 5/8" line is plenty for return. bigger is better but -12 or more is overkill.

when doing the return bung, if the pan is off the car PLEASE DO remember to angle it upwards a bit, because the way the KA sits in the chassis, the exhaust side of the engine is angled downwards just a tad, and thus if you take a bung perpendicular to the pan coming straight out, when it's installed, it will actually be pointing down...i made that mistake...luckily mine will get grimy and maybe drop 2 or 3 oil droplets over a weeks time if that but its mostly sealed up. i used a regular barbed bung with a nut on the backside (from an old style kit years ago that i got). i would definitely recommend having a stainless return line with AN style fittings and stuff to ensure the proper seal, so if its in a tight space or slightly dipping lower than you need it, it wont find a way to leak out.

i use high temp silicone line (similar to the jgs kit - i just custom did mine from atpturbo.com's components) and it works fine, other than getting grimy sometimes, but pretty much everything in that area of the engine gets dirty sooner or later lol.