Originally Posted by Outkasted24

Thanks for catching that, I guess I got a little caught up while editing everything before I hit "POST".

In #3 I'm trying to say that the middle of the spring is still going to have a very soft/stock spring rate, Meaning The strength isn't going to fully be there in the middle and the length of the freshly cut spring is going to be lacking the stiffer spring rate from the ends.
There won't be enough catch on the spring and you have a greater chance of bottoming out, The strong rate sits at the top and bottom of a spring, If you cut the stronger part off....Well, Now the new Bottom/Top is weaker along with the middle.

In #4 I'm basically trying to say......By Cutting a front spring on one side, You'll never get an exact rate on the other side.
You won't have that stiff catch and the perch won't hold the seat tight....Like Factory and Aftermarket springs are engineered to do.
Why do you think all applications are so specific.

If you look at a set of springs, They are wound the opposite way for each side and The Seats are the opposite.
You won't get a perfect cut and the rates won't be perfect either.
By cutting a spring, Your basically weakening the integrity of the whole set up.
Stiff bottom and top, soft middle to compress and decompress while going over bumps.
A soft spring won't decompress fast enough when coming off of a bump, That means there is play in your suspension and the body isn't 100% planted to the ground.
If you don't have full contact at all times, You won't have full control.

It's really hard to explain in words, If you were standing in front of me and I had a spring in my hand, It would be so much easier to explain and show by example.

-Jeff