heres something that people ask a lot about when going ka-t... tuning!!!!

- Buy a wideband meter!! With an indash display.
I can not stress this enough, even if you take it to a dyno to have it tuned everyone should be monitoring their AFR on the street as well. Various factors can change AFR from the street to the dyno. Also if things go wrong you will know.
AEM wideband gauge, Innovative LC1 w/ the XD1 gauge, PLM300, etc. are all good units.

- A knock monitoring device is key. Listening for knock is pointless when by the time you can hear it on the outside, its too late.
The TXS Knocklite (included with the DTEC units or available separately) is a relatively new unit that can be programed for your particular engines noise profile via the stock knock sensor or any bosch knock sensor (the ford focus knock sensors are really affordable).
Alternatively a mic. pre-amp and headphones can be used (a knock sensor is just a microphone).

-Do not just whip-out a calculator to figure out some kind of base correction for larger injectors and think your finished. This hardly ever works correctly do to the various effects of MAF volts on actual injection time, -27% may drop dutycycle 50% which would cause the stock ECU to go crazy. This is WHY the WB meter is #1 . And its always better even at idle to start a little rich.
Based on my exp. if you want to figure out a number to start tuning from here's something that will get you in the range. The old method of trying to use % of injector increase will generally be too much. From my various tunes on various injector sizes this will put you a bit closer-
(old inj size) / (new injector size) = A
1-A = B
B*0.40*100 = % to take out (negative)
example-
270cc / 440cc = 0.613
1 - 0.613 = 0.387
0.387 * 0.40 = 0.1548 *100 = 15.48% which you would input as -15.5% into your low throttle correction fields.
This is pretty close to my settings on my 440cc /stock MAF tune.
Different injectors styles will have different response times (charge time for the coil) so settings will vary (Again do NOT just input estimations and expect it to be perfect).
Since the KAs are all factory setup for N/A AFRs it necessary to rich en up higher throttle areas that can see boost. Even on a .50 trim T3/T04E .63A/R boost can be had at around 25-30% throttle so those areas above that will need to be richened up. A decent starting number would be +10% from the idle setting (for ~8psi of boost). This should make for a rich starting point depending on the setup (AGAIN do NOT just input estimations and expect it to be perfect. Having the right tools to tune it in properly it what its all about).

-Timing
Timing is ALWAYS a concern with piggybacks. Some piggybacks have timing adjustment built in but most do not. For those that don't, MSD BTMs are nice for in cabin control and it will work at multiple boost levels (unlike dist. retarding). But basic retarding of the distributor is a decent low budget option, the only real differences would be not having different timing retard at different boost levels. But if your only aiming for one boost level and don't have any over boost conditions there's not a lot of difference.
Setting up timing is a matter of avoiding knock. The ECU will happily give you plenty of timing if knock isn't present. If knock is seen, timing goes bye-bye. There's been a lot of discussion of MAF signal reductions giving timing increases. Even with injectors as large as 630cc injectors I have not seen anything that a couple degrees of dist. retard wouldn't have fixed. If your just retarding the disty, your overall timing is going to be lower everywhere anyhow. Therefore fixing any possibility of increased timing.
Now that we have that out of the way, on to tuning timing.
This is where a knocklite comes in really handy because the ECU will retard timing before the knock is audible. Start out with significant timing retard and get a decent AFR tune (don't spend too much time for now, leave it a little bit rich). Then start making passes advancing a small amount each time (if your using a BTM, maybe a degree if your using a timing light). When you finally see a little knock, back up a notch and reset the factory computer. Its very important to reset the ECU when knock is seen because the ECU will start retarding. Unplug the 2 connectors at the battery or pull the battery ground for ~10 seconds then reconnect.
Once settled on a timing setting, the final AFRs can be tuned.
-Airflow meters
A meter swap isn't aways needed. If you have a nice flowing MAF like the S14 one you may actually leave it. The ECU will give maximum dutycycle before the MAF signal maxs out. And with large injectors you will always be taking away fuel until your injectors are tapped out. So basically even if the MAF is maxed out the ECU never sees that much voltage.
And the S14 MAF provides better signal than a larger MAF. Its actually kind of nice to have a stead MAF signal to adjust, makes it more predictable.
The only difficultly is if you wanted to run multiple boost settings on one map. Whatever maximum boost the car is tuned at is all the airflow its going to delivery for. There is nothing else to tell the ECU that airflow has increases after the MAF hits its limit. But there happens to be a work-around. Basically instead of using TPS signal to tell the piggyback what to do you install a suitable MAP sensor and wire its signal to the TPS input.
This actually does wonders for the response of the whole system.
Its really only functional for systems like the E-manage or DTEC-FCs that have multiple throttle ranges. Using a 2 bar map makes it very simple, at 0 psi it should show 1/2 throttle, 7psi 3/4 throttle, 15psi full throttle.
It gives air flow correction based on manifold pressure vs RPM, PERFECT!
The driveability of a normal N/A MAF and boost tunability of MAP.
-Air intake temp. sensor
To keep the ECU informed of the actual temp. entering the engine the AIT sensor needs to be in the cold pipe or in the cold side intercooler tank.
Ideally it should be located in the cold pipe, outside of the engine bay to avoid heat soak to the sensor. Just reading open air temps doesn't really tell the ECU much.
- Tune it properly!!!!! So many people botch the tuning and then blame the piggyback for various reasons when things go wrong. Then others (author included) take the time and care needed to do it right and it works. Either pay for the dyno time or datalog passes down a straight stretches of road. But don't just ask for somebody else's settings and figure your good to go. Paying for a "TUNED" ECU may take some labor out of the tuning, but all setups need to be custom tuned for good consistent results.
<12.0:1 / >11:1 under boost is the goal, don't be scared to take pass after pass to make a nice flat AFR line. 11:6-11.8:1 I veiw as the ideal goal. Also don't make huge jumps when tuning, start plenty rich and make smaller and smaller adjustments as you go. Sometimes as little as 0.2% can make quite the difference.


GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY TUNING!!!