HEre is some info if you know what you are doing:

[FRONT SPECIFICATIONS]:

Left & Right Camber (stock): -0.17 degrees +/- 0.50 degrees
Left & Right Camber (CJ): -0.5 degrees (exactly)
(Note: This is better suited to wider tires and maximizes the contact patch a little better during turns without increasing edge wear)

Cross Camber (stock): +/- 0.50 degrees
Cross Camber (CJ): zip!
(Note: This simply measures the disparity between the left and right
wheels... I believe in total symmetry

Caster (stock): 7.67 degrees +/- 0.50 degrees
Caster (CJ): 8.00 degrees (exactly)
(Note: This is the angle of the tires off the plane of the ball joints of the A-arms and pushes things to the top of the allowable
spectrum. The end result is better high speed stability at the expensive of slightly heavier steering effort (which I like anyway .

Cross Caster (stock): +/- 0.50 degrees
Cross Caster (CJ): zip!
(Note: This simply measures the disparity between the left and right
wheels... again, I believe in total symmetry

Total Toe (stock): 0.00" +/- 0.04" (1 mm)
Total Toe (CJ): 0.01 (exactly)
(Note: Just a "hair" of toe-in up front adds some stability and helps
eliminate any wandering feel)


[REAR SPECIFICATIONS]:

Left & Right Camber (stock): -0.75 degrees +/- 0.50 degrees
Left & Right Camber (CJ): -1.0 degrees (exactly)
(Note: This is better suited to the beefy treads out back and maximizes the contact patch a little better during turns
without increasing edge wear)

Total Toe (stock): 0.16" +/- 0.04" (or 4mm +/- 1mm)
Total Toe (CJ): 0.09" (or ~2mm) (exactly)
(Note: Dropping the toe-in by half out back works in conjunction with the new geometry setup up front and increases
handling a bit by making the car a little more sprightly, for lack of a
better term