Folks, I thought he was talking about wheel hop and traction bars, which generally should be loaded to push the traction bar instead of pull the traction bar..........but I have so far, not seen your design.
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A traction bar is *not* the same as a single trailing link (one per side) from the cars front, near the radiator, going back to the front axle.
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But back to the discussion as to how your traction bars should be adjusted:
If you have traction bars set neutral and you get wheel hop, you can only go two ways: either tighter or looser, and one or the other will cause LESS wheel hop.
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BUT if we are talking about a single rod (one per side) that goes from the cars front, near the radiator, back to the front axle,......when *that* rod is adjusted, if affects castor, and toe in/out which affects how stable the car goes in a straight line.

The cars I have aligned for autocrossing have always responded well
to positive castor...........but FRONT wheel drive cars work best in a turn
with zero castor, and your tires don't get eaten up as much. Negative castor makes the car darty, unstable, and deadly to drive. Toe out makes
the car darty, unstable, and deadly to drive, also.

My present front wheel drive car has no power steering, is stable at all speeds, and can be steered with one finger on the wheel.........I think I got it right, regardless of what others may believe..........and since I do alignments, I tried several settings, before I found the combination.
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Once you arrive at a non-wheel-hop setting for your traction bars, or trailing links, or whatever you have, and you want to know *what* your specs are set to, so you can duplicate it later, let me know, I will check it for free and write it off to research.-Bob