View Single Post
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:57 AM
  #13 (permalink)  
MrLHT's Avatar
MrLHT
John @ LHT Performance
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 0
Default

Some more pictures will be up soon.
Thanks for everyones comments.

Here's some tips when assembling the turbo and manifold. We recomend you use red loctite and lock washers on the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold. These have a habbit of comming loose and there impossible to replace when everything is assembled. We also recomend you replace the exhaust gasket with a new OEM dual layer ( 94 GSR) which has better sealing qualities than the single layer.
You will not need a gasket between manifold and the turbo if the surfaces are 100% true. We always surface the turbo flange and manifold to be sure.
Next , the downpipe. We also surface the downpipe flange and the surface of the turbo. We use HTV ( The red high temp silicone) between the flange and turbo. We recomend the use of antiseize on the bolts for the downpipe. Use high grade bolts ( Not stainless ) and re-torque after a heat cycle.
Another must is a downpipe brace. The downpipe brace needs to be on the back side of the downpipe before the flex joint near the factory O2. This way the downpipe is secure and the flex joint does it's job , Most downpipes crack because there is no brace and the whole exhaust system transfers weight on the downpipe.Even the factory Honda exhaust manifolds have 2 braces, It;s takes a little more time but it's worth it for reliability.
__________________
www.lhtperformance.net.

727 344 1800


*Turbocharging* Engine building* Tuning *Intercooler piping*exhausts* headers* clutches ,fabrication and much more

13 years in the same location.

** HONDATA Authorized Dealer+ Tuner **



01 Type R-647whp street car w' AC - Cover of turbo magazine Feb 2008

01 K20a INSIGHT - Cover of Honda Tuning magazine June 2008


2011 KR-Z K20 powered CR-Z -Cover of Honda Tuning magazine April 2011
Reply