lol im sure i speak for Jake and anyone else that knows the facts about H series motors. I absolutely love reading these H vs B posts, they are a hell of a way to cheer somebody up.

Me being one of the few people that actually know what their talking about when it comes to these swaps can assure you that the wiring is a piece of cake.

There is nothing different then doing a B series swap. You have to extend a few wires to make them reach. For example the alternator wires. You have to add in a resistor box ONLY IF YOU PLAN ON USING THE STOCK INJECTORS. And also only if its a OBD1 Motor.

the OBD2 H22s use Saturated injectors. but they are only 290s as opposed to the obd1s 345s.

as far as putting it in a EF, ive never done that. But the wiring would be the same as for any other B series or single cam.

I would make it easy on yourself and get a P28 and get it mapped to run the H22 and disable all the crap.

Knock sensor, IABS, etc...

It takes me approximately 45 mins to wire it for a EG or a EK because its all the same shit.

on a ef, it cant be much harder other then the obd1 conversion.

As far as the weight goes. WOOOO its a little bit heavier, but it also helps the tires stay put a little better. The balance shafts can be removed to get rid of another few lbs. and so can various brackets and whatnot.

Im running a near blown set of tokico illumina shocks, with eibach sports springs up front a H&R Race in the back. the sports up front keep the car at the same height as the Race in the back and make up for the motors extra few lbs.

If anyone has any questions theres plenty of people on here that know me and know how to get ahold of me.

Mario