hey AutoZone has plastigauge, i've rebuilt many engines and 1 thing i've learned(cheap rebuilt but more reliable) is to replace the rod where the knock started since its stressed and bolts are stretched, it can get pricey in the rebuilding dept. but... do it once or do it over again and again, also the 2.5 has a common wrist pin knock in which case its best to upgrade to floating pistons/rods out of a turbo car also like you said the Reman. cranks are hit or miss, i've used them before and the cranks being cut 20/20 is scary especially if you are going to spin the motor hard, besides them Reman. cranks have been welded on(if they cannot turn it on a spun journal)
if looking at steel cranks(2.2)there's also a problem caused if turned since it looses its hardness most cranks i've seen are hardened at max. of .008 so anything that's turned .010 or more you might as well call it a cast crank unless you have it hardened but this also adds more cost to the crank, so best bet is to find a standard crank and have it polished, hope i'm being a little helpful