Well if vtec wasn't mechanically engaged you aren't going to know if the valve to piston is good. Also you should measure these kinds of things to give yourself a factor of safety becasue just because they clear with you spinning the motor by hand doesn't mean they will be good a 9k rpm's when the rod stretches some and when the cams become slightly de-timed due to belt stretch ect... I usually shoot for .040" piston to valve on the exhaust side. Gone down to .030" on occasion and never had problems. Intake valves usually have plenty of clearance with most big cams and as much as +5 degrees or so as long as valve size is stock. Exhaust valves with big cams like todaa b's or jun3's usually start coming real close at around -2 or -3 degrees. AS your motor sits at .030" off the head your cams are both at about -2.5 degrees to begin with so if they are not right nopw I'd move the cams to +2 or +3 to put you alot closer to tru zero than you are with the cam gears actually zeroed out. Also you have to pay attention to the degrees of seperation from cam to cam to avoid valve to valve issues but I don't think b's have enough duration to worry about this too much. Try staying within four degrees of seperation and you should have no problem at all. Good luck.

Oh and your comp numbers look ok, I'd expect to see about 250 or 260 but every gauge reads different. I'd suggest a leakdown test to be sure.