The T mod is not the best way to handle boost control. For as little as $55 you can purchase a ball and spring type boost controller that will give you nice control and adjustability without some of the downfalls of a bleeder type. A bleeder type does just what it says under boost. It bleeds of some signal (sir) to the wasegate. This is basically a big fat vacuum leak when you are not in the boost. It is also bleeding off some of the air the Mass Airflow sensor has already accounted for. The ball and spring type puts a restriction in the vacuum line to the wastegate and does not bleed it off.

As far as mods and what order you do them there are some beaten paths to follow. Try www.buschurracing.com or www.turbotrix.com and check out their staged upgrades. A fuel pump and clutch are very good upgrades as well as nice insurance but the 4 pinion center diff is really not necessary. Several people are running low 12s to high 11s on the factory open center diff.

Find us on saturday nights and we can give a quick and easy recipie to a mid 13 sec street car for right at $1000 bucks.

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Joe
94TSiAWD
http://tampabay.dsm.org/members/jbucci
13.001 @ 106.55... but things change