Nobody ever does
I love denial
There is nothing to giggle about when you have coolant pouring out your tailpipe, ask Vince, he'll tell you all about it If you really really want to use nitrous for giggles, I recommend medical grade and a balloon.
OK, you're losing me. You have heard about the new street racing laws, correct? I don't know if now's a good time to be putting nitrous on your car for street duty.
I've never ever in my life seen a puddle of nitrous or nitrous burn for that matter, but I understand what you are getting at
I don't know about not spraying under 3500 either, and I've done a little homework. It's not so much puddling that needs to be worried about, that can be avoided with a dry kit. The damage I've seen at low rpm's has always been headgasket, piston, rod, or cylinder wall. The problem is that the nitrous is flowing at a fixed rate the entire time, at a lower rpm the nitrous mixture that enters the cylinder will be much much denser (less rpm's means more time to fill the cylinder. Remember, the nitrous is flowing at a constant rate), this leads to a lot higher cylinder pressure and if something isn't up to snuff, it will break. Most nitrous backfires are caused by a lean mixture, or a huge shot at low RPM (the manifold fills up and it just sits there waiting for a valve to open and BOOM!!) This is more a air velocity vs. volume of nitrous/fuel issue, not a certain RPM issue. 3500 might be right on one setup, 1500 might work on another. Once again, fuel puddles, nitrous does not. Poor distribution through the intake causes puddling, use a dry kit if it's a concern, and on a Grand Am GT, I'm going to guess it is Being that the car is FWD and more than likely on street tires, spraying off the line will be useless tractionwise. I don't buy into the "it will break the welds on your intake" thought process though as nitrous does more down low and the sooner you can get it flowing and hook up, the more it will effect your ET. Of course you would have to take it to the track for that to matter, and you're not, so.....
+1

Me personally, on your car, 75 dry, cooler range on the plugs, check them after a run to make sure you aren't lean or if you don't know what to check for, pay to have it put on a dyno though it's really not necessary in this case. If it is lean, play with the jetting and/or you may need to step up the fuel pump. But once again, on a car you owe $7500 on that isn't going to really be fast anyway, I strongly recommend against it. You will start out with the best of intentions, then fall victim to 'I can go faster, I just need bigger jets' Trust me, every newbie does it and if you've ever been at the final round of qualifying for a big event, you know the pros fall victim to it as well