whats the difference between a oem turbo car and a na car that you add the turbo to???? the fact that the factory installed the turbo!

given that the factory installed and designed the system that must mean it is the best. sure! can we say FORD FOCUS? just because the factory designed it doesn't mean it is the best or event good, hell in the case of the focus it doesn't say shit for the factory except they can produce a low budget rolling mechanical malfunction.

just becaus the factory but a turbo on it doesn't say a damn thing.

the dodge srt-4, I am not impressed. a 2.4ltr turbo'd car with 230hp at the crank. a 2.4 ltr should have 230 hp at the crank wiht out the turbo. this means the srt has about 160hp without the turbo ( given the standard 7psi of boost ).. 160hp na on a 2.4 ltr???? mopar needs to go back to the drawing board.

honda b16 is 160hp na on a 1.6 ltr engine add 7lbs of boost and you wil be at the 230 crank hp that the srt has, you will be doing it on a 1.6ltr and you won't be stuck with the srt's 22/mpg city/hwy. which I am sure is driving conservatively. hell I get 30+mpg on my b16 in the city when I drive conservatively and its 15 years old.

I am also putting together my own turbo kit that will see about 250-260whp at 10psi with stock internalls. I will run a vacume controlled boost limiter and an ignition controlled boost limiter for safety, what happens to a oem turbo if the wastegate malfunctions and doesn't open BOOM. game over your screwed. time to buy a new engine. now how good is oem?

this turbo is going on my daily driver and by doing the work in stages you work on the car on the weekends and still have it to drive to work during the week. yes it would be easier to have a 2nd car while you work on your daily driver so if you can afford the extra bucks for a beater that you will sell after the turbo is on then cool. otherwise build in stages. i.e. upgrade fuel pump, add fuel pressure sensor, fuel filter upgrade, and fpr (if needed ) one weekend: add oil pressure and temp, boost gauge, boost controller, turbo timer, egt gauge, and fmu if it is a piggyback or you are tuning it, if hondata then I would buy an extra ecu off ebay have hondata installed on the xtra ecu then you can just swap ecu's at the last second before you drive to the tuning shop,the next:

then the final weekend before you install the turbo I would dry fit everything to make sure there aren't any clearance issues and check that all the small parts are there. I would double check all the other stuff up to this point to make sure it is working and programmed I.E. the turbo timer and boost controller, since this may not take all weekend you can relax with the extra time. call the tuning shop and setup an appointment for tuning the engine for after the turbo install. thefinal weekend tap the oil pan attach the oil feed, thread in the egt sensor, bolt up the turbo, put on the i/c plumbing, hook up vacum lines for the wastegate and boostcontroller, finish up the odds and ends, and get it tuned.

do your research, know what you need and want, understand you setup and your engine, and if you don't have time to do it right the first time don't do it wait till later and do it right.

people have problems with there projects when they use cheap and inferior parts, don't get enough info, and don't buil a margin for error. I have said it befor and I'll say it again..... if you want to run 20psi into your engine don't build it to handle 22psi you waiting for disaster, build it for 30+psi and let it have a vacation while you run 20psi. sure it's a little more money but the extra cost is way less than doing the entire project over.

honda's aren't worth tuboing?????? puff puff give

250 whp, 28+ mpg, 13's in the 1/4 easy, complete audio video system, lower cost than any stock car running the same 1/4 times, not worth it..... on what planet?

the domestics on here may not be for playing with. 12 seconds is 12 seconds regardless of what your in, the idea is to do it better. your 12's equals a domestic gas guzzler where as import 12 sec is still 25+ mpg. and saying a na car has its limitsif you turbo it...what? I said it earlier a oem turbo car is just the factory jackasses puting in the work for you. as soon as you take a na car with its "limits" and put a turbo on it you now have a turbo car and your "limits" are gone. the oem car is limited by the same things, boost capability of the engine, fuel management, turbo size, as the na car. since factory boost is normally 6-7psi the engine is built to handle that and more. the honda b16 can run 6-7psi all day with no problem just the same. sleeve the block and build the bottom end and both engines will handle enogh boost to satisfy most of us here. oem boost or your boost? who does it better is up to how well YOU put it together.

turbo anything.... just do it right.