basically you can better or equal quality parts than everything in that list, from the top to the bottom, in most cases, for less money too!**

okay first off i dont really like tanabe sway bars, the only set ive ever examined were thicker than stock, but so light-feeling im pretty sure they were hollow, and i just liked the feeling of the kind i bought instead. i paid extra and got cusco, a big thick and heavy bar, but whiteline is equally great, even suspension techniques will work fine. remember thicker is not always better!

a lot of those parts can be found used if you look for them. i picked up tein tc rods about 9 months ago for under $100 off ebay, and some rear subframe spacers off a wrecked s14 for $20.

strut braces: ebay ebay ebay. its pretty hard for a company to fuck this up, not exactly a complicated part. i bought nice apex and cusco ones for bling factor, but i could have spent that money better on rucas (rear upper control arms) or chassis bracing or something. those three point strut bars are nice, theyre all over ebay.

cheaper companies: there are new companies coming up that are producing quality suspension pieces for a lot cheaper than the bigger guys. spl, tougefactory, dgtrials, etc etc, they make the same quality parts for less than you would pay for JIC or kazama goods.

coilovers: personally, i dont really dig tein construction, comparing them to cusco, jic, tanabe, and even d2, theres a cheap feeling when you visually inspect their parts. as far as anything else, im still rocking shocks and springs, but a friend has the HEs and he says the car feels really good. however, if youre doing a bargain suspension, rock whatever you can find, cause coilovers are a bit too bling for a total budget of about $800. however if you put all that money into coilovers, (which i think would be a bad idea, as you can always get them later and buy a bunch of other parts in the mean time) i would get the new d2s ($800 if you didnt get in on a group buy) or save for jic flt-a2, you can find em for s chassis for around 1000-1300 if you look hard enough.

bushings: mill your own out of aluminum presto, theres your drift setup, haha. for s chassis, energy suspension kits are good stuff, but you wont end up using some of the bushings if you end up going with replacement parts that use spherical bearings(tension rods, etc etc).


tie rods: i dont have these yet, but i want to get of the longer ones bad. there are a bunch of sets floating on ebay right now, but a lot of them dont come with the spherical bearing ends that really tighten up steering, like the kazama ones... so hot! most rods alone will allow you to get greater angles mid-drift and really help your turning radius, and are much stronger than stock to withstand the rigors of hard driving, which equal less down time, but i wouldnt put these ahead of the suspension, this is more like a.. "finishing touches" part, like you dont need the ability for greater drift angles if youre still learning the car.






**if i had $7000 and a stock 240, i would spend some money on suspension, but leave the majority of my funds for tires and entry fees. learn everything you can about the car as is, up to, for instance, the exact threshold of traction with street tires. learn the car way, way, way before you start adding anything to it, if nothing else so you can see how well (or poorly) youve spent your money on the modifications. i had my car for 2 years before i took a wrench to it, and since i started working on it i can see how its improving step by step, and every bit of it makes for more experience, which is the best investment by far.

sorry for long post!