Since the engine is a hybrid using a non-VTEC block and a VTEC head, supplying oil to the head will be done with an external oil line. We’re taking this opportunity to test the new Golden Eagle oil port adapter that sandwiches between the oil filter and it’s pad, or housing on the backside of the block. It has two outlet ports available. We’re using the larger one to plumb a –6 braided steel oil line to the head, while the smaller port is used for plumbing an oil pressure gauge. Just as a point of interest, we will be running some tests on the dyno soon on another engine to determine the pumping losses (if any) associated with this adapter installed in the system. On this engine, the adapter does an extremely nice job of cleaning up the normal “mess” associated with the external lines.

The crank pulley used is a balanced ITR piece. It has not been lightened, as we’re looking for maximum effectiveness in dampening crank harmonics. When building Honda engines, I always mark the balancers exactly 180 degrees from their original TDC mark. If the balancer is correctly marked, setting the valves becomes an easy task, as all you do it rotate the crank to the proper TDC mark, rather than attempting to “eyeball” cam gear positions.

While we already know that there’s adequate piston to valve clearance, it’s time to do one final fitment session involving the head, on the assembled shortblock. With the valves and lightweight checking springs installed in #1 combustion chamber, we install the head with a .030” head gasket atop the block. The head studs are torqued to no more than 25 ftlbs for this operation. The cams are installed, as are the rocker arms on this cylinder. The rockers we’re using are identically prepared (wiper-pad arc and relief machining) like the rockers we’re going to use in final assembly, except they are all-three linked together, effectively locking them into the Hi-Cam VTEC position. The cam belt is also installed on the engine and we have our own cam gears set to “zero” as a starting point. The valves are lashed to .006” intake and .007” on the exhaust.

A dial gauge is used with the flow-bench adapter plate to measure valve lift (from the top of the spring retainer).

With a degree wheel installed on the front of the crank, we’re able to measure the cams’ lift from .040” (1mm) valve lift valve opening to .040” (1mm) at closure. If we split the number of degrees between the opening event and the closing, we have the cam’s lobe center, which we’ll use to install the cam “straight-up” or at zero. Repeat the procedure with the other side. With the cams properly degreed-in, we can now check the piston to valve clearance and valve-to-valve “clicking” clearance. Pushing down on the rocker arms to make the valves contact the piston, the dial gauge reveals that we have almost .100” exhaust clearance and .080” intake, with a clicking clearance of .030”, which is adequate and “safe” for my engine. During final assembly, I’m using a .036” Cometic head gasket to achieve a piston to head clearance of .038”, so the actual valve clearance will be greater than we measured.

Next, the head’s removed from the engine and assembled with all the valves and other components. We use a special non-moly lubricant when assembling the valves into their guides and genuine Honda valve seals.

ARP studs are used in the block to yield consistent torque values for each head fastener. The deck of the block and the deck of the head are thoroughly wiped free of oil with acetone. Our head gasket is a Cometic B20 style that we had made with a .036” firering thickness. We customarily spread a thin amount of Hondabond around the oil return ports (six of them) on each side of the gasket before installation. This insures that the gasket will properly seal the misaligned oil ports that cause leaks on so many LS/VTEC build-ups. It’s also mandatory that the head-locating dowels be shortened by at least the amount milled from the head and the block, or they can literally hold the head “up” preventing adequate gasket sealing.

The head is torqued to 64 ftlbs, using moly-lube on the studs, as well as their nuts and washers (both sides). The cams are installed next with new Honda oil seals and liberal amounts of moly-lube to make the new rocker arm pads acquaintance with the cams’ lobes a pleasant one.

The timing belt is installed with the cam gears, which we’d previously set. We use a unique locking tool that uses four dowel pins to lock the cam gears (and cams) in place for torquing the bolts that retain the cam gears without over-stressing anything.

We set the valves next, which is an easy task, since we’ve placed a white mark exactly 180 degrees opposite the white TDC mark on the harmonic balancer. Using this method, you set the valve lash for #1 cylinder with the pointer at the TDC mark. To set #3, rotate the crank counter-clock-wise to the new mark. For #4, rotate the crank another 180 to the TDC mark, and for #2, go another half spin to the new mark. With this method, there’s no guesswork to screw things up, and it’s dead-nuts on the money.

The rest of the “bolt-on” components can now be fitted. The header is one of John’s finest and it’s been previously proven to make power in the 300+ range. The exhaust ports in this head have been raised and so have the primary tubes on the header.

I spend all the time that’s needed to trim the header gasket so that it can not protrude into the path of the exhaust flow. This is extremely important and should be done when using any head that has reworked exhaust ports. If there’s any portion of the gasket (or header flange) hanging so it impedes flow, you can kiss all the porter’s efforts good-by.