If the Sub is like most cars, you won't have much camber adjustment without modifying something. So, the zero rear camber is probably because it is non-adjustable, and the -1.5ish front camber is probably about all you can get.

Camber can be used to tune the over/understeer balance of the car, so if the car tends toward understeer, putting lots more camber in the front vs. the rear would help. If the car feels neutral to you now, you won't want to dial in much more front camber than whatever you already have.

Toe settings mainly effect turn-in, but will also effect over/understeer. For autocross, people normally go for a little bit of toe-out in the front. In the rear, toe-out can make a car feel VERY twitchy, if not downright squirrely. Zero toe or slight toe-in is typical for the rear of the car to promote stability.

AWD cars are a different beast, though. What is typical for FWD or RWD cars could be slightly different, though the basics above should still hold true.

Excessive camber (up to about 2 degrees) won't cause much trouble with tire wear on the street by itself. Toe is what will eat your tire. Anything more than about 1/16" of toe (in or out) especially if combined with lots of camber will chew up your tires in a hurry.

In general, assuming the rear camber is not adjustable on your car, I think the "Other" option looks like a good place to start.

Be sure to get "before" specs on your alignment for comparison purposes. And if you can get them to do it, have them dial in Max camber as a test just to see how far you can go with it. You'll want to know that eventually.