Source: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31763

MAZDASPEED AFTERMARKET
This is an attempt to bring information about the available aftermarket parts for the Mazdaspeed Protege together in one place. Items specific to our model of car (cold air intake, turbo-back exhaust, etc.) will have links to their respective web page. Generic items (boost controllers, turbo timers, etc.) may or may not; please do your own research when purchasing these products, as they are available from many different retailers. This list will be updated as new parts become available. If you know of an item that is not listed, send me a PM with the info. I'll add the part and give you credit for the find. Vendors will not be listed in the "Other Contributors" section.

DISCLAIMER: All information presented here is expressed with absolutely no guarantees on price, performance, or safety. Use this information at your own risk to help you in your research for MSP modifications. I do not accept any responsibility for your actions or the results of such actions.


WARRANTY INFORMATION
Visit www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8123 and www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8124 for information about warranty issues. Basically, your warranty cannot be voided simply for having aftermarket parts. It has to be proven that the specific part caused the damages.


TURBO TIMERS
In a turbocharged car, after a long or hard drive, you're supposed to let the engine idle for a while before turning off the car. This will prevent damage to the turbocharger by letting it cool properly. The Mazdaspeed manual recommends you idle for 30 seconds. A Turbo Timer will keep your engine running for the proper time after you remove the key from the ignition. There is a theft protection feature built in to most turbo timers, so you don't have to worry about getting your ride stolen.

The Blitz Dual TT combines a turbo timer and boost gauge in one unit. The boost gauge reads in bars, not psi. All the other brands (HKS, Apexi, etc.) are very similar, and you should research them to pick the best one for you.


GAUGES AND PODS
You need a boost gauge before you get a boost controller! The Autometer ProComp Ultra-Lite series matches the stock gauges pretty well (day and night), and are very reasonably priced. MSP owners have also been seen with Defi and GReddy gauges, which are more expensive, but more accurate, than the Autometers.

Even though the gauge pods listed below are for 52mm gauges, people have had success using a Dremel or similar tool to cut out a hole for 60mm gauges. Paint for the pillar pods (very close match to stock) is available at: http://vinylpro.safeshopper.com/29/254.htm?893

Full A-Pillar Pod (two 2"/52mm gauge openings): www.jegs.com (Part # 105-22656), $56.99
Full A-Pillar Pod (three 2"/52mm gauge openings): www.jegs.com (Part # 105-22657), $58.99
Steering Wheel Pod (one 2"/52mm gauge opening): www.protege5online.com, $75.00


BOOST CONTROLLERS
The MSP runs at ~6.5 psi, but has been shown to vary greatly from car to car. A Boost Controller allows you to increase the boost level, thus increasing your performance. There are two main categories: MBC's (Manual boost controller) and EBC's (Electronic boost controller). MBC's are much cheaper, but require you to go under the hood to change your boost setting. Also, getting the boost where you want to takes some tuning (mainly running through 3rd gear, watching the boost gauge carefully). EBC's allow you to change the boost level more easily, and from inside your car. Some even have multiple settings, so you could have one setting for day-to-day driving, and another one with higher boost for the track.

What boost should you run? What has been accepted by most members of the board as 'safe' for daily driving? These are questions that you need to research yourself. Upping the boost too much, or without other mods (like colder spark plugs) will cause irreversable damage to your motor. To start out, try 9psi; this is for both flashed and unflashed ECU's. There is an airflow based fuel/spark cut (when the MAF gets maxed out), and members boosting over 9psi (or over 8psi in cold weather) are hitting it. A Fuel Cut Defenser gets around this limitation.

JoeP XZ MBC: This is the MBC that most members have. It's made by a guy named Joe Pampena (his member name here is kwiktsi), costs $45, and is easy to install/uninstall. An optional electronic controller gives you in-cabin control over boost. Available from www.joepmbc.com.
Turbo XS MBC: Similar to the JoeP. $79
Turbo XS High Performance MBC: Claims to make your turbo spool quicker. $129
Turbo XS Dual Stage MBC: Allows in-cabin switching between two boost levels (normally only found on EBC's). $239
JoeP FCD (Fuel Cut Defenser): Fully adjustable for your needs, if you're boosting over 9 psi you're going to need it, especially in the winter. $60.00 from www.joepmbc.com.

EBC's are similar to the Turbo Timers, where each brand has different features that you need to research yourself. They all do the same thing. The Greddy Profec B seems to
be one of the most popular models, and it's pretty reasonably priced at around $330.


FUEL SYSTEM
The MSP runs insanely rich. Take a look at a dyno chart with an air/fuel mixture graph, or even easier, look at the carbon deposits on your exhaust tip. This overly rich fuel mixture is the main cause of the 'hesitation' that MSP owners have complained about. The ECU flash advances the timing to overcome this, but the fuel mixture is still too rich.


JoeP FPR (Fuel Pressure Reducer): Has eliminated or reduced the hesitation problem for many members. Mainly for unflashed MSP owners, but people have used it on flashed ECU's with no problems so far. $25.00


SPARK PLUGS
Stock MSP spark plugs are platinum NGK PZFR6F's. Colder, copper spark plugs would be a wise investment if you're upping the boost in your MSP. Detonation (Pre-ignition, where the air/fuel mix in the cylinder burns before being lit by the spark plug) WILL cause damage to the motor. Why copper? Platinum plugs have a sharp tip and don't conduct enough heat away to prevent detonation at boost levels higher than stock. A copper spark plug has a wider tip that conducts heat much better, and may prevent you from messing up your motor. The factory spark plug gap is 0.028" - 0.032".

Copper NGK BKR7E's (#6097) are cheap (around $2 each) and work well for our car. They are one heat range colder, and are bare copper plugs. You can have your local auto parts store (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.) special order them for you, or get them from http://sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3040 or http://store.summitracing.com/defau...ighlight=NGK+11


ENGINE PARTS

Urethane engine mounts: Greatly reduces wheel hop, and driveline thrash when shifting. Be warned that the car will vibrate a LOT with both front and rear mounts replaced. Some people have replaced the front mount only, and have found it's a good trade-off. http://www.protege5online.com/For_S...ge/AWR/awr.html $127.00


TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH PARTS

Kartboy Shifter Bushings: Reduces play in the shifter. http://www.kartboy.com/powertrain.html $25.00
GM Syncromesh Manual Transmission Fluid: It's a much better fluid than what's in the MSP tranny. It'll make shifting easier, and less notchy. Available at your local GM dealer. Some people say the Pennzoil Syncromesh is the same stuff, and it's available at most auto parts stores.
ACT Clutch: A higher-performance clutch than what's stock, and it'll handle more power. Get the street disc, not the 4-puck or 6-puck, unless all you do is race your MSP. Available from www.propartsusa.com with a special price of $312 plus $25 shipping for members of the forum.