The good news is that pitting is a rare occurrence in most classic car projects. Cylinders can be honed out using an electric drill and an hone that's sold in most parts shops. Before honing, apply some brake fluid to the cylinder and adjust the tension spring to fit in snugly along the cylinder walls. Set the drill to rotate slowly and run the honing stone on the cylinder's surface in an up-and-down motion until the scratches and pitting disappear. Less honing is more, as you wouldn't want to make the diameter big enough that it can't prevent leaks.Wash excess brake fluid using alcohol when you're satisfied with how the cylinder wall looks. Use paper towels to fill the excess space and to protect the cylinder until it's ready to run.Then comes the exterior part. Use a wire brush until the surface is clean and free of rust. Prep the surface with alcohol or mineral spirits, then apply some metal prep to de-oxidize the metal. After priming, coat the cylinder with your preferred paint color. You can also opt for powder coat here, but make sure to fill up the bore with paper towels and tape openings shut before applying paint. If you're looking to paint your calipers and wheel cylinders the same color, then it's much more efficient to wait and do them all at once

Brake calipers can come in different designs. You may see anywhere from one to four individual cylinders, all of which need to be cleaned. If any of the cylinders are severely pitted, then it's better to do a re-sleeve or replace the whole thing.Take extra precaution when taking the calipers apart as they could be bolted together. Also, don't mix different halves as it will always result in leakage; the same applied to the bolts that hold each cylinder in place.Hone the caliper cylinders as you did the master or wheel cylinders. Wipe them clean and prevent dust and grit from getting inside.

Brake fluids made of mineral are solid favorites even among car manufacturers. The only problem with using mineral is that it accumulates water in the atmosphere, which eventually forms pits, rust and buildup. Car owners will need to flush old fluids out and get new ones in every few years to keep the system in optimal condition.Silicon fluids are relative newcomers in the automotive industry. It's highly resistant to water and can act as a permanent brake fluid. The problem with silicon-based products is that they have higher viscosity and capillary action, which can result in leaks, seepage and foam-ups while in the process of refilling. Moreover, most car owners report a spongy brake effect when their systems are filled with silicone fluids.All in all, it may depend on your classic car's make and model in your choice of brake fluids. Silicon fluids work extremely well on the '69 Camaro, '65 Mustang and the Jaguar XKE, while proving to be detrimental to the '66 Corvette, Sunbeam Tiger and the Jaguar XK 120.As a general rule, silicon fluids are best for rebuilt systems that have perfect cylinder walls. You're generally better off with mineral fluids if your classic car has an undersized braking system in respect to the car's weight. If you're on mineral, then we don't recommend you replace it with silicone fluids.

Most classic cars (especially American ones) use a steering system known as a ‘recirculating ball type’. This, in a nutshell, means as you steer the wheel a rod turns a column which in turn, steers the wheels.