I know this is and odd request but I'm curious about what sort of physical difference there are between these two parts. Pictures of them side by side with their mounting surface clearly displayed would be great. I've searched with google and found some on FRSport that only served to make me want more pix. I'm posting this in the lounge because I don't know how technical you might consider the picture request.

Another question I have is whether or not these to parts would "read" the same, ie if the S13 SR iacv was connected to a s13 KAde ECU. I imagine the connector plugs would be different...i envision those needing to be changed if you were to use one for the different engine.

I know its an odd/borderline stupid question...but i have a good reason for asking.

Thanks,

 

ok. I have to know.
What's going on in that head of yours.
lol

 

Sr20 IACV


KA24 IACV


KA24 redesign


link talking about the "new" style versus the "old" style IACV for the KA24DE - IACV: OLD vs. NEW - need some input & HELP!!!! (PICS) : 240SX Technical Forum

couldn't find anything with one side by side. I'll look around a bit more.

What exactly are you trying to see?


As for if they will work with the different ECU, I don't honestly know. I'll see if I can find an answer to that too, but I would bet it wouldn't.
EDIT - nope, they are totally different. can't even swap the FWD sr20 IACV with the RWD one.

Why do you wanna know?
Thinking about using a SR manifold with the supercharger?

If/When you get it ROM tuned, Martin will be able to set up the fuel maps so that the engine will basically "catch itself" and attempt to maintain its own idle, without the use of the IACV. That way, the IACV only has to step in to keep the idle smooth, and in case there is an increase in load.

 

I was searching to see just how different the mounts would be to the intakes. Thanks for posting those pix. I have seen them too. The flange looks close if I did choose to use one. I could make some sort of adapter to the SR lower intake plenum or mod it all together in order to run the IACV. But based on that info you provided I could step around the need to run it all together. Blocking the mount for the lower SR manifold would be a solid option.

Thanks for that info sir...good stuff as always.

 

I try, I try.

while I was looking for relevant info for this, I got stuck on a thread about a very highly built civic. It was basically a full out drag car that the guy drove everywhere. His custom manifold didn't allow for a "real" IACV, so he ended up fabricating a mount so he could mount the IACV on the firewall, and then ran a small hose from the intake tube, through the IACV and back to a nipple just behind the throttle plate. Forget the exact set up, I know it wasn't stock since he was using some aftermarket ecu set up. He needed it because his cams where pretty aggressive and made idle difficult to maintain.
but for what you have going on, that might just be the best bet since you're idle will be pretty smooth, you should just have some extra load from the supercharger drag. Of which, How much added drag will there actually be at idle? How a supercharger behaves at idle isn't something I've ever put any thought into. It won't be making boost at idle will it? I'm assuming the supercharger would know when the throttle plate is closed. I know old school superchargers boosted if they were spinning pretty much regardless of anything else.

 

The Xterra m62 Eaton super charger actually has a vaccum accuated bypass build in. So the boost builds based on vaccum withn the supercharger/manifoild. You can seal them or even make them make it manual by using a solenoid to open and close it. More food for thought...

 

i kinda figured there would be something like that on it.

At what vacuum level does it engage/disengage?
Is it at a point you could just drive around under light load and keep out of the boost level?
That would be a big help as far as mpg.
Otherwise, I would want the manual switch. don't need boost to get groceries... well... maybe not everytime at least. lol.

 

I'm sure it would be possible to design it to close up whenever you want. To change out the vacuum solenoid would be an option, though I've seen servos used too. Sort of like a step...1/2 closed and completely colsed. I think the vacuum would make for a more fuel efficient option as well, because it does allow you to drive almost out of boost.