s14 ka-t help
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s14 ka-t help
I have an s14 240sx.
mods are:
greddy bov
aem management
garret t28 ball bearing
decent sized fmic
walbro 255
370cc injectors
a few other things im forgetting just ask and ill tell you if you need more info than that.
up until recently it ran amazing on 6lbs of boost until one day i was driving home from work at about 45 mph and it started bogging almost as if i was out of gas then completely died and wouldnt start back up. After about five minutes of repeated cranking and no firing it started up for a split second then died after allowing about 20 minutes in between that and checking wires, fuses, fuel pressure, fluid levels and random unplugging and plugging back in of wires it fired up then ran for another second then died so i left it for about an hour to go get some more tools. I came back and started up completely fine and was able to drive it home with no problems at all once I got home I turned it off and was unsuccessful on getting it to start back up, so i left it alone until i had more time to work on it. After about a week i finally started working on it now it will start and run fine until it has been running for about five minutes then it dies and wont start until i turn the whole car off take the keys out and wait five or so minutes then it will start up for about a minute then die and repeat the process again. It dies whether im giving it throttle or not almost feels as if it wants to stay started but wont no matter what. I have replaced the plugs, wires dizzy cap and button oil rad fluid attempted a boost leak check never noticed or heard any leaking or saw bubbling when i sprayed soapy water at connections. fuel pump is pretty new and i have flow to all injectors as well as spark all the time as far as i can tell from the tests i have done. Also my boost guage reads 26-28hg at idle and the air to fuel hangs out around 14.1 but increases to 17.1 then reads --- just before it dies used to be around 12.1 at idle before the first day and 10.1 at full boost also i havent been able to drive it since i got it home. I hope someone has had the same problem or knows how to fiix it please let me know anything i could try to fix it thanks in advance also i used the search but found nothing along my lines of problems.
Mike
mods are:
greddy bov
aem management
garret t28 ball bearing
decent sized fmic
walbro 255
370cc injectors
a few other things im forgetting just ask and ill tell you if you need more info than that.
up until recently it ran amazing on 6lbs of boost until one day i was driving home from work at about 45 mph and it started bogging almost as if i was out of gas then completely died and wouldnt start back up. After about five minutes of repeated cranking and no firing it started up for a split second then died after allowing about 20 minutes in between that and checking wires, fuses, fuel pressure, fluid levels and random unplugging and plugging back in of wires it fired up then ran for another second then died so i left it for about an hour to go get some more tools. I came back and started up completely fine and was able to drive it home with no problems at all once I got home I turned it off and was unsuccessful on getting it to start back up, so i left it alone until i had more time to work on it. After about a week i finally started working on it now it will start and run fine until it has been running for about five minutes then it dies and wont start until i turn the whole car off take the keys out and wait five or so minutes then it will start up for about a minute then die and repeat the process again. It dies whether im giving it throttle or not almost feels as if it wants to stay started but wont no matter what. I have replaced the plugs, wires dizzy cap and button oil rad fluid attempted a boost leak check never noticed or heard any leaking or saw bubbling when i sprayed soapy water at connections. fuel pump is pretty new and i have flow to all injectors as well as spark all the time as far as i can tell from the tests i have done. Also my boost guage reads 26-28hg at idle and the air to fuel hangs out around 14.1 but increases to 17.1 then reads --- just before it dies used to be around 12.1 at idle before the first day and 10.1 at full boost also i havent been able to drive it since i got it home. I hope someone has had the same problem or knows how to fiix it please let me know anything i could try to fix it thanks in advance also i used the search but found nothing along my lines of problems.
Mike
Last edited by mike_Supernaut; 02-18-2013 at 12:28 PM.
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Ecu throwing any codes?
Try the CTS. It's a fairly cheap part and probably wouldn't hurt to put in a new one anyways.
Edit: check voltage at TPS
Try the CTS. It's a fairly cheap part and probably wouldn't hurt to put in a new one anyways.
Edit: check voltage at TPS
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You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'
You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'
Last edited by KRUKED; 02-18-2013 at 04:49 PM.
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Temp sensor makes no sense, car will run either way. Just rich.
If not a harness issue, I would say bad ECU or cam sensor. Thats about all that will make the car flat out stop running out of nowhere.
If not a harness issue, I would say bad ECU or cam sensor. Thats about all that will make the car flat out stop running out of nowhere.
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Forgot all about the CAS. I had a very similar problem 6 years ago. Turned out to be the CAS.
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You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'
You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'
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Thanks for the help first of all and ill replace the crank sensor tonight after work and ill see where that gets me.
Last edited by mike_Supernaut; 02-20-2013 at 03:07 AM.
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S14 has a crank sensor, and a cam sensor. The crank sensor is for obd2, reads the teeth off the flywheel. It is not needed to run. The CAM sensor, in the distributor, controls the ignition.
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Might be smarter to grab a whole Dizzy. I bet you could pick one up fairly cheap and avoid putting a sensor in your curent dizzy that you'd need to pull a part. Or maybe someone has one that you could try out.
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If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
If it has tires or boobs it's going to cost you money...
