Stock Traction rods vs Aftermarket
Just wondering... [what traction rods do]. I had some Megan traction arms and they broke.
Please enlighten me someone?
thanks.
-paraphrased by epstein
Please enlighten me someone?
thanks.
-paraphrased by epstein
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RIP Tim Aldrich
"..watch this cool documentary on bums racing shopping carts downhill, and making a living off of selling bottles. living the dream."


RIP Tim Aldrich
"..watch this cool documentary on bums racing shopping carts downhill, and making a living off of selling bottles. living the dream."
Last edited by Epstein; Mar 3, 2009 at 03:17 AM.
I dont think i'd compare megans with a quality aftermarket replacement.
At a bare minimum, the heim joint ends allow for a bind free rotation of the arm throughout its ROM, something an oem, or poly bushing cant do.
I wouldnt let much megan near my car at all in the first place.
At a bare minimum, the heim joint ends allow for a bind free rotation of the arm throughout its ROM, something an oem, or poly bushing cant do.
I wouldnt let much megan near my car at all in the first place.
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R.I.P. Tim 
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
Yes, Heim joints eliminate binding, doesnt even have to benefit by adjusting, simply the bind free ends are a benefit enough to be worthwhile.
__________________
R.I.P. Tim 
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
The Driftworks traction control arms, replace the standard non adjustable Nissan part. It is the final adjustable arm needed on S13,S14,S15,R32,R33 rear suspension set up. Adjusting this arms length decides how much toe is given to the rear wheel under suspension compression. The arms also eliminate another of the unwanted standard rubber bushes from the rear suspension setup, once again contributing towards that perfect handling car.
All of our suspension products are designed and tested for rigorous use. They are made to our own exacting specifications, using high load Japanese three piece bearings, and maximum penetration welding. Do not confuse these products with cheap imitations that use dangerous bearings and low strength welding.
All of our suspension products are designed and tested for rigorous use. They are made to our own exacting specifications, using high load Japanese three piece bearings, and maximum penetration welding. Do not confuse these products with cheap imitations that use dangerous bearings and low strength welding.
Last edited by Epstein; Mar 3, 2009 at 03:18 AM.
Traction Arms for the Nissan 240SX from HorsepowerFreaks
"Because Trac Rods take the most force as you launch and accelerate, it is essential to remove the slop caused by their rubber bushings. Alex Pfeiffer designed these rods with hiem joints and adjustable-length arms (allowing you to preload the suspension). These measures eliminate harmful (and slow) wheel hop while improving suspension response and driver control. "
Maybe try really launching the car at the track ?
Sidenote, damn yeah im gonna need some of those.
1.9xx 60's on the SR, T25, and 215/45/17's, we'll see what some drag radials and ~ 400 ft lbs will do next
__________________
R.I.P. Tim 
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250


These 3 trendlines show how toe changes with different traction rod lengths. Toe angle versus wheel height. It's called a toe curve. It shows bumpsteer. In the key you'll see that I've got 3 different lengths. 8.25" is about the stock length. The 0" height in this graph is equal to about 2" of drop. X axis is toe, in thousandths.
So yes. Adjustable traction rods do something. They adjust the amount and effect of bumpsteer at the rear wheels. Also, they reduce binding forces for freer wheel travel.
Good enough?
Last edited by Epstein; Mar 3, 2009 at 03:19 AM.
My understanding is that when you super slam your shit the toe arm is no longer enough, the traction rod gives added adjustability.
I have z32 uprights, spl ruca and toe rods, and stock traction rods. Never saw a point for the traction rod personally. If I had money to throw around I'd probably buy a set for the sake of completeness in the rear end.
I have z32 uprights, spl ruca and toe rods, and stock traction rods. Never saw a point for the traction rod personally. If I had money to throw around I'd probably buy a set for the sake of completeness in the rear end.
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