egr was being gay because the tube didnt line up with my header..
so i decided to take it out..and block it off

well...i took out the supports first..then take off the saucer things..that was like 2 bolts each..then i proceeded to remove the egr tihingy that was attached to my intake manifold..
so i got everything out..installed the blockoff plate on..sealed up the one vaccum line that ran from the egr to the engine block..from what i saw...took out the tube..bolted up the hold in my header..then started the car

dammit! why is it idling rough? the tachometer is like bouncing..its idling too low...wtf am i suppose to do?

there is only one vacuum hose..and thats directly behind the motor

here is something i pulled out of FSM
the egrc-bpt valve moniters the exhaust pressure to activate the diaphraghm, controlling throttle body vacuum applied to the egr valve. in other words, tge recirculated exhaust gas is controlled in response to the positioning of the ERG valve or to engine operation.

If the excess egr flow exists due to the EGRC-BPT valve malfunction, the engine roughness will be increased. if the roughness is large, then the vacuum to the EGR valve is interrupted through the EGR & canister control solenoid valve. If engine roughness is reduced at that time, the EGRC-BPT valve malfunction is indicated..

soo...wtf? do i have to remove the canister or what? there is no problem while driving...its just idling..really sucks..

i dont have egrc-bpt valve anymore..lol so that can't be malfunctioning

help me out guys..this is pissing me off

 

i hear blocking off ur egr is bad for some things in ur motor.

 

hmm..the advantages that i see of having a egr is burning up more dead gases and have the idle throttle controlled by the vacuum/pressure..idk..

someone told me that ECU will learn and try to correct this problem

anyone else have any suggestions?

 

there is a sensor that goes to the egr valve now that it is not hooked up its not getting a reading and in turn throwing off your ecu which is causing it to idle rough. You have to get an egr simulator, I'm not completely sure but I don't think that a resistor with work because the level varies. Look on ebay there maybe something there or look it up in the FSM if the level stays steady then just plug a resistor in.

 

fuck that just bump up your idle

 

yeah..i drove it around alot today..then got home and the idle leveled out..
turns out that the heat from the manfold sent the 'right signal' to the egr temp sensor thingy..

so i am guessing that the heat caused electrical resistance in the sensor thus making it read 'correctly'

so maybe ill just go to radio shack and get a resistor..
but egr simulator?..they seem to only makes those for 5.0 stangs..rofl

the idle is bumped up to like 1100 rpm when i turn on the a/c..and that seems normal..so i am guessing that the ecu sends a signal that overrides throttle control from the egr

steve..turning on the a/c is the only way i know to bump up the idle
i did adjust the wire on the throttle body..but then it just goes back down by itself as if its computer controlled

 

turn the screw on the Iacv to raise and lower the idle

 

1100? damn, you burn more gas at an idle than i do on the interstate

 

my car does the same thing... so im interested in wut u find out to fix it. If the resistor chip thing works will you help me out with wut you did. thanx

 

ttt