Honda/Acura Tech Honda tech discussion.

Tripping Cooling Fan ??

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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 07:41 PM
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Default Tripping Cooling Fan ??

I have been using a bent fuse where the relay should be to make the fan run constantly. is there a better way ?? the fuse was held down by tape but, kept falling out. anyone have any ideas ? my friend sean opened up his relay and rigged it ??
Anthony
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Drunmann Tuning's Scoob: 2.55 liter-6spd swapped Bugeye, fully built w/280 cams and a rotated Precision-6266
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 08:06 PM
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how about replacing whats broken with new, OEM honda parts?
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 10:42 PM
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no, i didn't clarify that
I meant is there a better way to trip the cooling fan to run all times !
i tried the bend fuse hints no relay, so it run always. i tried the spoon thermoswitch it triggars the cooling fan at a lower temp. couldn't really tell a difference. i got spoon thermostat,rad cap (doubt it really even does what it suppose to, except maybe put to much pressure in the cooling system), and 40% water wetter 20% coolent, 40% water. i'm mostly trying to find alternatives to having to buy a fluidyne for 350 bucks !!
thanx
Anthony
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Drunmann Tuning's Scoob: 2.55 liter-6spd swapped Bugeye, fully built w/280 cams and a rotated Precision-6266
DD: 2010 MazdaSpeed3: Fully bolted and tuned
Drift Missile: S13 DOHC swap, welded diff = slidetastic
Bicycle: Kawi 636R.

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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 10:53 PM
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Just figure out the voltage required on the hot wire, find a continually hot source, drop the current to required level, and splice. Simple.

On a side note, I'd take off that highpressure cap if I were you.
Plastic end tanks + age/wear + higher pressure => nice crack.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 10:59 PM
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Originally posted by "Bill"

Just figure out the voltage required on the hot wire, find a continually hot source, drop the current to required level, and splice. Simple.

On a side note, I'd take off that highpressure cap if I were you.
Plastic end tanks + age/wear + higher pressure => nice crack.
yea i keep telling myself to take it off. but, keep putting it of because of the hassle of looking threw my attic for the stock one. my car only has 68,000 miles on it but, it does need to come off. thanx for the info !!
Anthony
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Drunmann Tuning's Scoob: 2.55 liter-6spd swapped Bugeye, fully built w/280 cams and a rotated Precision-6266
DD: 2010 MazdaSpeed3: Fully bolted and tuned
Drift Missile: S13 DOHC swap, welded diff = slidetastic
Bicycle: Kawi 636R.

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Old Jul 16, 2002 | 04:42 AM
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i agree with bill, you need to find a power source with the same volatge and hot wire it in, or run a toggle switch off that source that way you can turn it off and on when needed.
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Old Jul 16, 2002 | 06:10 AM
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currently, you have a single core radiator...right? if this is the case...and your worried about money, spend 160 from importautosalvage.com on a generic dual core radiator. i have one and it fits perfectly in the honda mounts and has been working just fine, plus it does have a guarantee.

its not worth overheating your motor because you're being cheap. believe me, its a lot less expensive when you have to swap or rebuild your motor because you cracked your head.
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Old Jul 16, 2002 | 06:15 AM
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also...for those who are about to say single core radiators work just fine...

yes, a single core radiator will work just fine, but several people made this point to me when i was going to just stick with the single core.

honda engineers design b-series vtec's to run a certain temperature. and, with both a single core and dual core radiator if the thermostat is working well there shouldn't be any problems under normal driving conditions. however, on hot days where there is increased heat and stress on the engine the water temperature could very well rise 10-20 degrees because the single core radiator simply can't cool fast enough...because its capacity just isn't big enough. and yes, there are ways to get around buying a new radiator...which you seem to be doing by running your fan at all times. however, your fan is still not going to be as efficient as a bigger radiator with more capacity.

and the problems that occur may not be obvious at first, because the difference on your temp guage will probably be small...however, after prolonged use..ie two to three years of hard driving you increase your chances of something going wrong.

it would just suck if you blew your engine because you ran it hot...its happened to me and it sucks.
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