Hey guys, how goes it? I got a good deal on a pair of fully loaded calipers off a 93 legend (dual piston) I was thinking about putting them on my eg, I've already done the dc2 brakes up front and rear and I'm looking for the booster/master cylinder off of one now. Any one ever put the legend brakes on? Is it worth it? Anything else I might need? From what I've found all I need is the brackets and the calipers and I'm good to go. Any help would be awesome. Thanks much

 

there are few different write ups on honda-tech.com about how to do it. just search for legend/nsx calipers

 

/\ cut and copied from there....

I started this thread, because I've seen a lot of wrong information, and been getting way too many PM's about this, I will edit this thread as I add/correct stuff.

This will work for all non ITR 3rd generation integras, and 99-00 Civic Si
and other civics with integra or Si front knuckles

First you will need a caliper from

Accord V6
or
ITR

pads for an ITR, I reccomend you call Cobalt Friction Technologies USA , andie will reccomend a great pad for you

Then you will need some 11" rotors
I chose to buy them from brian at fastbrakes

or you can buy prelude vtec rotors and have them redrilled to 4x100
the center bore is perfect for our integras
( I have not confirmed fitment, but I know Corrado G60 rotors are 11" and 4x100)

also keep in mind this will require a minimum of a 15" rim
so your spare will not fit in the front anymore

Now the problem,
the calipers are not a direct bolt on
the bolt spacing for the caliper bracket is the same, but offset is incorrect
if you were to try to bolt it on directly, the rotor would hit the inside of the caliper bracket, and the wheel would not spin

Solution:
grind about 2~3mm off the entire inside face of the caliper bracket
this will give you the clearence you need

keep in mind I'm using prelude rotors, if you use thicker rotors like legend rotors you will have to remove more material

(another solution that i have thought about but have not been able to confirm, putting a spacer between the hub and the rotor (back of the rotor), this would center the rotor in the caliper better, and not weaken the caliper bracket by thinning it)

You will need some basic hand tools, brake fluid, vise, 7" angle grinder, impact screwdriver to take off old rotors, new crush washers for brake lines (4x)

Get all of your parts together
jack up the car onto stands
take front wheels off
take off brake line
unbolt stock caliper
use impact screw driver to take off old rotors

test fit new 11" rotor
test fit new ITR or equilvalent caliper

you will then see what the problem is
take caliper off the slide pins
and put caliper bracket in a vise and grind down about 2mm of material off the inside of the caliper bracket, see diagram, side with the red arrow



it is not important that you take off exactly 2mm throught the whole caliper bracket
what is important is that you take off enough material so that the rotor will not make contact with the caliper bracket

also, some people on honda-tech have said to grind the outside of the caliper bracket, and this has worked for some people, let me explain why I think this is wrong,

1st the outside of the bracket is the mating surface to the knuckle, if this is is ground down it must be 100% even, which is very hard to do with a angle grinder when it is skipping all over the place, if the cut is not even to a high tolerance the brake pad will not hit parallel with the rotor's surface

2nd if you grind the outside you are effectively bringing the piston away from the rotor, this means the piston will have to travel out farther to come into contact with the rotor, this could cause a problem as the pads wear and the piston is extending out more than it is designed to

now back to grinding
this is a trial and error job
you take off some material, test fit, see where more material has to be removed, and then grind more.....repeat

once the clearance cut is made,
bolt up the caliper,
put in the new pads from cobalt friction
reinstall the brake line with the new crush washers (very important)
flush the brake system ( might as well order this from cobalt too)
go brake in your pads ( beat the shit out of them)

 

Awesome, thanks for the info guys.

 

i am goign to try s2k fronts on dc rear's. I think they will work. i will post a write up if it does.

 

For people who need the inside face of the caliper bracket
thinned by 2-3 MM, (about 1/8 inch) so the rotor will not rub the side
of the bracket, I have the machine that will do this on site. With a cast caliper bracket, it may not be weakened a significant amount, compared to the total thickness.-Bob