h22 into an ek?
 

Alright,
I'm really considering doing this swap, but I have found a lack of info on it. I'm trying to throw an h22a1 or 2 into my 99 ek hatch. I know that I'm gonna lose that a/c(shit doesn't even work that well anyways), but somebody told me that you also lose the powersteering? anybody out there successfully completed this swap personally? let me know
matt

It's been done, BlurboEK knows a lot about H's, so i dont think you will have a problem finding information about this, but im wondering why you are worrying about power steering, its really not needed in hatches, and i prefer not to have it, but goodluck with the swap man

www.jdmshit.com has the brackets for retaining ac and ps.

gotta keep that ac at least man, this is florida!

First decide on the swap.. your choices are:

F20B
Accord/Troneo Sir and Sir-T (CF4) (JDM)
200ps/145tq
notes: (ported head and type-s cams(12.1, 11.2 lift), 2.0L block 11:1cr 85mm pistons
Tranny code T2T4
1-3.285
2-1.956
3-1.344
4-1.034
5-0.870
F-4.266 (yes same ratios as a stock 5th gen)
LSD

H23A VTEC
Accord Sir Wagon (CH9) (JDM)
200ps/163tq
notes: 10.6:1 CR, open deck likely regular JDM H22a head. 95mm stroke
Auto Tranny stock

H22A (Euro-R Spec)
Accord Euro-R (CL1) (JDM)
notes: Type-S head and cams 11:1 CR, single stage manifold,
Tranny T2W4
1-3.285
2-2.090
3-1.481
4-1.071
5-0.812
F-4.266
LSD

H22A7
Accord Type-R (CH1) (Europe)
Notes: Same as Euro-R above, 212hp, dfferent header,
Tranny U2Q7
1-3.285
2-2.090
3-1.481
4-1.071
5-0.870
F-4.266
LSD

H22A (S-spec)
Prelude Type-S and Sir spec-S (BB6)
Notes: Type-S head and cams 11:1 CR, dual stage IM,
1-3.285
2-1.956
3-1.344
4-1.034
5-0.812
F-4.266 (yes same ratios as a stock 5th gen except for 5th)
LSD for SiR spec-s and ATTS for type-s

And of course you have your USDM H22A1/4 and JDM H22A only real difference being the 10.6:1 compression of the JDM vs 10.2:1 from the USDM, JDM having slightly more aggressive cams and JDM having the option of LSD.

Go with the HCP mount kit which will enable you to keep PS and AC (purchase from JDMShit.com) and then pick-up some DSS (driveshaftshop.com) axles. If you choose a H22A or H22A1 you'll need to convert to OBD-1. Not that big of a deal. As for wiring since our harnesses are all one piece, unplug from the ECU, pull throught he firewall and just place atop the motor. Then pull the motor out and label all of the connectors, do the same on the H-series motor you choose. Now you can just remove the wires from the H-series harness that you need to add and place them in your harness for a nice clean OEM looking job and while your in there extend a few wires. For the specifics go to honda-tech, there is a thread dedicated to H22 in EG/EK/DC and it's like 50 pages long. Hope this helps.

-Mike

To add some more info to those swaps.. in an accord/prelude I'd go with and of the H22's, for an EK/EG I'd rock the F20B (and probably will within a few weeks ;) ) reason being...

The F20B was Honda's R&D platform for the F20C (S2000 motor). Another reason this motor was produced was so Mugen could complete in the 2.0L class and under. If you're able to pick-up an F20B out of the SirT you'll receive a very stout bottom end (the stock bottom end can see 9K RPM's on a daily basis problem free), you'll also receive a slight P&P, the more aggressive TypeS camshafts and valve train, smoothed out intake manifold, larger tb.
Now the Accord SiR also housed a F20B but w/the automatic transmission this motor only had 180 hp, less aggressive camshafts, same valvetrain as an h22, no p&p, smaller tb and a lower redline.

Some specs of the F20B:

iron sleeves (as apposed to frm in H-series)
85mm bore (as apposed to 87 in H-seres)
88mm stroke (as apposed to 90.7mm stroke of h22)
11:1 compression (as apposed to 10.6:1 from jdm h22)
1.65 rod stroke ratio
53.8 cc (as as h22)
power output:
200HP@7200 RPM, 145LB-FT@6600 RPM

as apposed to H22:
200HP@6800 RPM, 161LB-FT@5500 RPM

Dyno:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...4/fc55fa03.jpg

taken from prospeed:
"The second graph is of a F20B motor from the sir Accord in Japan. It is only 2.0 Liters. The F20B motor Has Jun Cams and valvetrain, Custom Header and Hondata. Our Baseline showed that it made 199HP and 140 lbs of torque. Adding only the Cnc Ported head We made 213Hp and 147 lbs of torque. We picked up 14Hp and 7 lbs of torque. No cam gear changes were made on both engines.We only tuned the Hondata to make sure A/F ratios were correct. We could have yielded about another 2 to 4 Hp from tuning them. I just wanted to compare apples with apples. "

bottom end
http://www.ksfactory.org/tokusyu/ima...0B3/F20B40.jpg

larger oilpan
http://www.ksfactory.org/tokusyu/ima...0B3/F20B39.jpg

stock pistons/rods
http://www.ksfactory.org/tokusyu/ima...0B2/F20B30.jpg

iron sleeves
http://www.ksfactory.org/tokusyu/ima...0B2/F20B29.jpg

crankshaft
http://www.ksfactory.org/tokusyu/ima...0B2/F20B27.jpg

same timing compents as h22
http://www.ksfactory.org/tokusyu/images/F20B/F20B07.jpg

how much do f20b go for? isnt like 4-5k?