Originally posted by Spydum
with the lift on the '02-'03 LS6 cam, theres no way you could use stock length pushrods. I think I read somewhere they should be 7.4"..

Originally posted by gator oh and the B1 T1 the diff is basically the idle. B1 is a bunch smoother. it also holds its power a bit longer throughout the powerband too (good for racing).

PROS - if you over-rev you will bend a dime a dozen pushrod, easy fix, would probably not break anything else.

CONS - with a high lift cam and hi-po springs you will weaken the stock pushrod and risk the chnce of breaking it under stressful driving situations without ever over -revving the engine. You also risk bending a pushrod and throwing the geometry of the valvetrain off thus causing problems in other areas. Meaning, it is inherently weaker, so there is always a higher risk of bending it and if you do then you also risk damaging other valvetrain parts in the process.

You could go either way. You will be glad you had stockers in if you bend one and can get it fixed before any damage is done, you will look like a genious. Although you look like a boob if for some reason your valvetrain starts making noises after 3 months and you pull the head to find bent valves and pushrods and you know you never over -revved it. Then you have to fix and replace a lot.

There is a compromise. You don't have to go all the way and get chrome moly pr's. You can get new pr's made much stronger than stock which are rated to your springs and cam but not as strong as moly so they should still be the first to bend or break. It's what I do.
Good Luck,
ERIC

Originally posted by Spydum
with the lift on the '02-'03 LS6 cam, theres no way you could use stock length pushrods. I think I read somewhere they should be 7.4"..
I think someone already posted the link to ls1tech, there was a thread today or yesterday about the guy making 34rwhp more thru his A4. Keep in mind, shifting power peaks/curves around is great, but I'll reserve making judgement until I see his track mph..

Originally posted by gator
well Dino, i think we are looking out for you. i understand the reasoning for not running a big cam in an auto for a daily driver. BUT, i DONT think you are gonna run that well with just a LS6 cam. i have seen it again and again that people are not gaining the power of some on the net with just a cam change. now if you run all the boltons including headers, ls6 intake, pulley, etc - you are gonna run pretty well. but that is more the boltons, not the cam. if you want to run 11s, i think hooking the car and maybe weight reduction for the track are key. tire and convertor/gear (auto or mn6 car) are the way to get there. the differnce b/w 12.6s and 11.9s is huge and all in the launch.

also with a good programer, i have my faith in alan futral, any cam can be made smooth. i have NO startup problems with my 230/230 .573 111 LSA in my auto. no foot on the gas to start and keep, no idle surge, etc ofcourse i am real happy with it as a performer on the dyno and on the street, but i need to get some track time with the cam, life is busy for me right now. a 220 on a 114 lsa would be smooth and make great power.