Rough Idle, Tried Almost Everything. Someone Smarter Than Me Help!
sounds like you need to flush your headlight fluid and you might wanna try changing your lugnut filters too.
in all seriousness, it sounds like yoou've tried just about everything, gl with the fix
in all seriousness, it sounds like yoou've tried just about everything, gl with the fix
__________________
"If you take advantage of her, you will burn in a special place in hell.... a place reserved for child molesters and people who talk in the movies...."
"If you take advantage of her, you will burn in a special place in hell.... a place reserved for child molesters and people who talk in the movies...."
First any mods done on car ..recent CAM change? ..what is your TPS voltage at idle. and when checking it make sure it smoothly increases to around +4.3V at full throttle ..Please do this with engine off key on
__________________
Stock cam as far as I know (the the timing chain was old). Only mod is a TB coolant bypass and my idle was just as rough before I did that. TPS was around .6 volts I think. It has been a while, but I remember it was in spec. It did increase and decrease steadily. Is it possible to maybe have a valve guide leak bad enough to cause a bad idle like this? What can I do to test for this? I know I'm really fishing here but this is getting on my nerves.
__________________
-Joe
-Joe
Originally Posted by CamaroJoe
Stock cam as far as I know (the the timing chain was old). Only mod is a TB coolant bypass and my idle was just as rough before I did that. TPS was around .6 volts I think. It has been a while, but I remember it was in spec. It did increase and decrease steadily. Is it possible to maybe have a valve guide leak bad enough to cause a bad idle like this? What can I do to test for this? I know I'm really fishing here but this is getting on my nerves.
i know when my valve guide seals got bad the oil killed my o2 every few months, i'd replace it and it would run better.
new seals and it never ate an o2 again.
as for something i'd try next if it was my car would be the pick up coil in the dist and replace the timing chain.. . the coil is cheap but you have to put the dist apart to change it and the chain sucks to do but will need it anyways if you plan to keep the car for a long time.
__________________
I just replaced the timing chain as well. The distributor is probably not in the best shape, so if the pickup coil is bad I would probably just replace the whole thing, but I would rather have a test that points directly at the distributor before I replace it. Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.
__________________
-Joe
-Joe
well you can test the ESD module but the pick up coil which is like 10$ did some weird ass shit to my car but still passed the quick test in the Chiltons manual.
if i remember right they say take the cap off.. unplug the pick up coil and test with a ohm meter that it reads good(0ohms) then spin the motor over and the meter should fluctuate while the motor turns but as i said mine passed this test but still wouldn't run worth a shit but it wasn't just at idle.
good luck and post up if you ever get it fixed.
if i remember right they say take the cap off.. unplug the pick up coil and test with a ohm meter that it reads good(0ohms) then spin the motor over and the meter should fluctuate while the motor turns but as i said mine passed this test but still wouldn't run worth a shit but it wasn't just at idle.
good luck and post up if you ever get it fixed.
__________________
Originally Posted by CamaroJoe
Wouldn't a bad pickup coil adversely affect the timing?
yeah i would think it would...
really I'm just lost at what would cause your car to idle bad. the pick up coil is just something cheap to try because mine did some funny stuff one time and that ended up being the prob... its nothing more than a guess thou.
__________________


