Transmission Question..
OK I recently purchased a 1990 Daytona 2.5L Turbo. WHen I bought it the cluthc was slipping so I ordered a Fadenza Flywhee, and FWDperformance.com Clutch Kit.
Well last weekend I jacked the car up, pulled the tires, axels, mounts, starter, etc...
Well after about 5 hours all I could get done was the traine to seperate about 3 inches fron the motor, But I cant get it to come out of the bay... I have tried eveything and it moves around slightly but will not drop down...
Does anyone have any experance with this or have any ideas??
- Mike
Well last weekend I jacked the car up, pulled the tires, axels, mounts, starter, etc...
Well after about 5 hours all I could get done was the traine to seperate about 3 inches fron the motor, But I cant get it to come out of the bay... I have tried eveything and it moves around slightly but will not drop down...
Does anyone have any experance with this or have any ideas??
- Mike
the tranny needs to stay level with the motor as the input shaft is still slightly in there. Its a daytona so you should have plenty of room to remove it if you have disconnected everything from it and unbolted it. Im puzzled why you are having a hard time
tranny mounts off/unbolted? by any chance..itr should be on the top of the tranny and if its 5 speed may have a bobble strut too
tranny mounts off/unbolted? by any chance..itr should be on the top of the tranny and if its 5 speed may have a bobble strut too
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I specialize in SRT4 tuning/troubleshooting/repairs.....
"if you got turbo lag, you ain't drivin' it right!!!" -Carroll Shelby

Skittles.....tasty arent they?
Try the newest flavors yet?...Orange blast and white mint

I specialize in SRT4 tuning/troubleshooting/repairs.....
The problem sounds like you are not pulling it far enough out to drop the whole thing. The output shaft is long (I am pretty sure it almost touches the crank) which means it might still be partially engaged with only 3" of separation.
Along with the trans mount over by the driver wheel well there is also a damper/bobble strut on the backside near the differential housing that connects to the K frame. When you unbolt the trans mounts from the frame, also go ahead and unbolt them from the trans, completely removing them. This might give you a little extra clearance to separate the trans and engine.
If you still cannot get it out, I would just try unbolting the pressure plate from the flywheel since you said you had 3"s of space.
Along with the trans mount over by the driver wheel well there is also a damper/bobble strut on the backside near the differential housing that connects to the K frame. When you unbolt the trans mounts from the frame, also go ahead and unbolt them from the trans, completely removing them. This might give you a little extra clearance to separate the trans and engine.
If you still cannot get it out, I would just try unbolting the pressure plate from the flywheel since you said you had 3"s of space.
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Patrick
05 SRT-4: Daily Driver, 11.9@117.4
88 Aries: 2.2L Turbo (Powered by Megasquirt II)
Patrick
05 SRT-4: Daily Driver, 11.9@117.4
88 Aries: 2.2L Turbo (Powered by Megasquirt II)
The only way to get the trans out is to pull the engine up and out a little.
Trust me my GLH-S is in the same situation right now. I know the frames are different, but they are not that different.
It would be easier to pull the engine with the trans still attached, because the reinstall is going to be harder than a dick in a whore house, if you try to get that trans back in there.
My bud Mike drops those right out the bottom, and claims it can be done without the engine being removed, and I have seen him do it, I just can't do it..Just remember if its hard to get it out just try to imagine getting it back in...These cars are hard to work on in my opinion.
Trust me my GLH-S is in the same situation right now. I know the frames are different, but they are not that different.
It would be easier to pull the engine with the trans still attached, because the reinstall is going to be harder than a dick in a whore house, if you try to get that trans back in there.
My bud Mike drops those right out the bottom, and claims it can be done without the engine being removed, and I have seen him do it, I just can't do it..Just remember if its hard to get it out just try to imagine getting it back in...These cars are hard to work on in my opinion.
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I did remove the transmission mount forn the drivers side whell well. I did unbolt the bobble strut from the frame, but not the transmission.. I will try that..
I dont know if it will come out anymore though... Because the diffrential is pretty mashed against the suspension arm as is...
Well I will give one more try this weekend and if no luck I guess im just goign to take it to a shop
- Mike
I dont know if it will come out anymore though... Because the diffrential is pretty mashed against the suspension arm as is...
Well I will give one more try this weekend and if no luck I guess im just goign to take it to a shop
- Mike
i've pulled many trannys including swaps auto to 5 speed and back to auto, to make things much easier, support the engine with blocks/wood remove the front engine mount than what you need is a small rachet strap, hook to drivers side of head and up over radiator support to something that will not bent when tighting the strap this will cause the motor to pull forward and tranny differential away from the K member/control arm giving you much more room to work with, you still might need to slightly roll the tranny to remove it, if don't want to mess with it i can fix it for you
How Much???
All I need done is Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate installed... and then all put back together.
- Mike
All I need done is Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate installed... and then all put back together.
- Mike
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Rally driving, when you're fertile enough to impregnate women with eye-contact
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