Just wait until I get my brakes.
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Originally posted by "shadowboy"
i beg to differ... yes you do build up more heat with road racing.. but with autocross you brake more frequently.. giving less time for the brakes to cool off.
with some OEM systems you will experience brake fade. especially all-drum systems.
i beg to differ... yes you do build up more heat with road racing.. but with autocross you brake more frequently.. giving less time for the brakes to cool off.
with some OEM systems you will experience brake fade. especially all-drum systems.
b) more frequently, but still only a few times. Sunday's course was 9 times. And thats with some left-foot braking to get the car to rotate mid corner. There were only 2 MAJOR braking zones, so i really dont think that there was enough sufficient braking to heat up decent pads to over ~400 degrees, which is where most brake fluids start to boil.
Even on Saturday's BIG braking zone at the end.,..it was isolated as a braking point, as the only braking zone before that would be midway through the chicane to stabilize the car, and that should have been very light, then you have a couple of seconds for those brakes to cool before the 3rd gear to 1st and through the lights.
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-93 MR2, #129 ES
-93 MR2, #129 ES
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400 degrees is a pretty high boiling point for most brake fluid. most non-racing fluid has DRY boiling points of around 400-450 degress.. guess what.. the brake fluid isnt gonna be dry unless it was just flushed.. and generally speaking, the higher the dry boiling point, the more hydroscopic it is.
the effective brake fluid boiling point is actually much less than 450.
besides.. most brake fade is in the pads. and i have autocrossed on cheap discount auto lifetime warantee pads long enough to tell you that they WILL fade.
besides.. read my post a little more and i suggested that his biggest improvement will come from only changing pads & fluid.
i agree with statement A tho...
still, the order & cost effectiveness of mods for autocross goes like such (at least as far as i am concerned)... for the most part
1: tires
2: suspension
3: brakes
4: engine
the effective brake fluid boiling point is actually much less than 450.
besides.. most brake fade is in the pads. and i have autocrossed on cheap discount auto lifetime warantee pads long enough to tell you that they WILL fade.
besides.. read my post a little more and i suggested that his biggest improvement will come from only changing pads & fluid.
i agree with statement A tho...
still, the order & cost effectiveness of mods for autocross goes like such (at least as far as i am concerned)... for the most part
1: tires
2: suspension
3: brakes
4: engine
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Shawn
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The answer to your question is sqrt(pi)
Shawn
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The answer to your question is sqrt(pi)
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heh, my bad, i do agree with you on that. that one is so simple & obvious that its easy to forget 
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Shawn
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The answer to your question is sqrt(pi)
Shawn
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The answer to your question is sqrt(pi)
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Originally posted by "PseudoRealityX"
#1 would be driver
but yeah, otherwise, agreed on all counts
#1 would be driver
but yeah, otherwise, agreed on all counts
And will it make my geo metro dip into the 14s?
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not much of an autocross course if it takes 14 seconds to finish....
too much of an autocross course if it takes 14 minutes
too much of an autocross course if it takes 14 minutes
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Shawn
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The answer to your question is sqrt(pi)
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The answer to your question is sqrt(pi)
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Originally posted by "Bob22b"
How much does one of them cost?
And will it make my geo metro dip into the 14s?
Originally Posted by PseudoRealityX
#1 would be driver
but yeah, otherwise, agreed on all counts
but yeah, otherwise, agreed on all counts
And will it make my geo metro dip into the 14s?
And yes, i can get your Metro into the 14s...for the 1/8th
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-93 MR2, #129 ES
-93 MR2, #129 ES
