Adjusting camber settings after spacer removal..Question on alignment
 

After my incident with the stock tires (245/45 series) rubbing the lip of the fender with my H&R springs, I had a spacer added to the shock mount to bring the height up a little bit to prevent rubbing. After that, I switched to a smaller sidewall tire (245/40 series) and have been running that for the past 4 or 5 months without any issue at all, a few auto-x events and 1 trip to Sebring. I am thinking that I will be fine now with the 40 series sidewall with no spacer since there is plenty of room and clearance, and personally think the front end sits up a little too high now, and want to remove the spacers.

All I will need is the camber checked, if not adjusted a bit, due to the change in the ride height, and called a few alignment shops in the area including a local dealership, Stingray Chevrolet, and they told me that I will need a 4 wheel alignment. I told them that I had a full 4 wheel alignment done about 3k miles ago when I had the spacers installed and my new tires put on and I just need the front camber checked/adjusted, and they proceeded to tell me that they are unable to just adjust one component (camber), that when one thing is changed (spacer removed) that they have to make sure all of the other settings are within spec.

I find this hard to believe, as me REMOVING a spacer which will bring the car down a little bit is going to change ANYTHING with the back end of the vehicle. Shouldn't I be able to have a shop do a "front wheel" alignment and a quick check/adjust of the camber settings, or am I missing something here?

Is the spacer located between the top of the strut and the body, or under the spring? If it's under the spring, it will make a VERY slight change in camber. If it's a body spacer, it won't affect alignment at all.

But, you're REALLY over-thinking this.

When you put the front of the car together, push the top of the struts to MAXIMUM negative camber. You want as much as you can get, and with most stock strut-suspension cars, you won't get much at all. So, just max it out. Get what you can get. If the two sides aren't close to the same (within 1/4 degree or so), maybe bring the more negative side in a little bit to match the other side.

Then reset the toe, because camber changes will throw the toe off, and that will cause tire wear issues, as well as maybe an off-center steering wheel.

Changing the front ride height is going to slightly change the weight distribution of the car, which will slightly affect the rear of the car. But, again, don't overthink it. You'll NEVER notice the difference that it makes.

FWIW, they're right, they can't just adjust camber. Camber effects caster and toe.

The spacer is on the bottom of the struts where they connect to the a-arm, so would I even need an alignment from removing them? I guess technically that would be considered a body lift, because it is lifting the entire suspension components upwards?

I learned this a few years ago when I was bouncing between the track and rallycrosses with my mr2. I'm not sure who else does it but Firestone has a lifetime alignment you can purchase. I basically told them before I purchased it that I would be coming in a LOT because I tracked the car. They said bring it.

Warning, BTW, my car also requires a 4 wheel alignment. I had done 2 alignments and on the third found that the shop here in Melbourne had a new owner. On the third visit they said that they could not do the rear because my car was too low, I think, sorry it's been a while. Not to drag this on but I had it out with them, even had to go to the Better Business Bureau. The result is I have to drive to Palm Bay now. Oh well. Just make sure you discuss it with them beforehand.

I don't know what other guys do but I thought it was worth the money.

I'm not familiar with how the bottom of your strut attaches to the A-arm. If it's like most FWD cars with a simple two-bolt arrangement, any "slop" in those two bolt holes (and sometimes they are slotted for camber adjustment) can affect camber. Same thing I said above applies, though... assemble everything pulled toward max negative camber. Then check the toe.

I am reading this as I can get a FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT and that the entire 4 wheel alignment is not neccessary since this wont affect rear alignment settings?

I got a $39 coupon from my local dealer for front wheel alignment and I'd like to use it for them to check everything after I remove the spacers....

Yeah, you'll only need a front-wheel alignment if you don't touch anything in the rear.

Would I trust a dealer to align my car for track use? That's an entirely different question.

As much work as you do on your car, you should just DIY. Google it.

Hm, I had no idea I could do it myself.... I'll look into it!!

If you have some downtime and want to come to Lutz, I can show you how I do it with toe-plates and a laser level. You can certainly use my lift too, just a 6-pack fee! ;)

Yes, I'd love to! Once I remove the spacers I will PM you and we can set something up.